THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bali and Lombok - page 283

Festival days are the best time to visit (see tourism.karangasemkab.go.id for dates), when
the temple swarms with worshippers carrying offerings all the way up the staircase.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: TIRTAGANGGA AND AROUND
By shuttle bus Perama charters run twice daily from Candidasa (Rp125,000/person, minim-
um two; 45min).
By bus Tirtagangga is served by minibuses and buses plying between Amlapura and Singa-
raja.
Destinations Amlapura (20min); Culik (30min); Singaraja (2hr 30min); Tulamben (1hr).
By taxi Komang Gede Sutama (see Trekking ) can arrange cheap private bemo charters on to
Amed, Candidasa and Padang Bai (Rp100,000-150,000/bemo).
Banks and exchange The nearest ATM is in Amlapura, 6km south. There are
moneychangers in the village but rates are better in Candidasa.
ACTIVITIES
Cycling Bungbung Cycle Tours runs back-road cycling tours from their office on the main
road ( 0812 3765 3467, sites.google.com/site/bungbungbikeadventure ). Half-day tours
include a 25km village tour (Rp300,000) and a long downhill ride (Rp350,000).
Massage I Made Putu Tungtang from Ababi is highly recommended ( 0812 392 6321;
Rp80,000/hr).
Trekking Every guesthouse offers a range of programmes and there are also some specialist
local guides, notably the reputable Komang Gede Sutama at Good Karma restaurant who
covers the most options for around Rp50,000/person/hr, and Nyoman Budiarsa, based at
Genta Bali Warung on the main road ( 0363 22436), who charges Rp30,000-40,000/hr
depending on group size and who also sells a map of local walks (Rp5000). Choose from
easy local hikes to longer versions that take you to Tenganan village above Candidasa
(2-6hr depending on where you start the walk): the Kastala to Tenganan section (2hr) is
a real highlight but can get busy in high season. More strenuous routes take you to Amed
(Bunutan) via the mountaintop Pura Lempuyang (9hr; Rp850,000/guide), and up Gunung
Agung (Rp1,200,000).
ACCOMMODATION
Staying in central Tirtagangga puts you near a choice of warung but also within earshot of the
busy road; staying further away means a greener and quieter outlook but a 10-15min walk
into the centre. Most accommodation has a restaurant attached.
Cabé Bali Temega 0363 22045, cabebali.com . Encircled by ricefields with views to
Gunung Agung and the sea, the four large and supremely tasteful bungalows here have day
beds from which to soak up the glorious surroundings, and a pool. The genial German-In-