Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Tenganan Dauh Tukad
West across the river from Tenganan Pegringsingan, the twin Bali Aga settlement of
TENGANAN DAUH TUKAD
is smaller, with just 275 families, and much less famous, but
also worth a visit. Part of its appeal is that every visitor is accompanied by a local guide,
which is a great chance to learn about village life and customs; their services are free but a
tip is appreciated. Tenganan Dauh Tukad looks less traditional than its neighbour but it's also
greener and more peaceful. It's also less commercial, because the village forbids inhabitants
from displaying wares in the street.
WHO ARE THE BALI AGA?
When the Javanese Majapahit conquered Bali in 1343, imposing religious reforms and a
caste system on the island, those that rejected the Javanization of Bali withdrew to their vil-
lage enclaves to live a life based around
ritual and ceremony
. Nearly seven centuries later
they are still a distinct group, known as the
Bali Aga
or Bali Mula, the “original Balinese”,
who adhere to a strict, archaic code in their social and religious lives.
The Bali Aga are followers of the Indra sect of Hinduism and trace their ancestral links
to Orissa in India rather than to Java like most Balinese. Among other things, their exact-
ing customary law determines on which of the three village streets they can live and who
they may or may not marry. Most of the daily rites are inaccessible to the public, but there
are many
festivals
where visitors are welcome; see
tourism.karangasemkab.go.id
for ex-
act dates. One of the most dramatic is the month-long Usaba Sambah, generally in May
and June, which includes ceremonial duelling known as
perang padan
or
mekare-kare
, in
which bare-chested men fight each other with thorny pandanus leaves.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: TENGANAN
By ojek
An ojek from Candidasa costs about Rp10,000.
On foot
The road to Tenganan Pegringsingan is a pleasant 3km walk uphill from the western
end of Candidasa. Tenganan Dauh Tukad is off the same road, partway up the hill. To walk
between the two villages shouldn't take long but you'll need a guide; going by road it's about
4km.
Tours
To gain insight into daily life in the two Tenganan villages you'll need a guide,
provided free of charge in Tenganan Dauh Tukad. Alternatively, consider joining a tour or-
ganized through the village ecotourism network, JED ( 0361 366 9951,
jed.or.id
).
Admission
Entry by donation.
