Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The temples
The
Besakih complex
consists of more than twenty separate
temples
, spread over a site
stretching for more than 3km. It's a good idea to begin with
Pura Penataran Agung
(the
Great Temple of State), which is both the largest and the most dramatic. It's built on
six ter-
races
, with more than fifty
bale
, shrines and stone thrones inside; about half are dedicated to
specific gods, while the others are for ceremonial purposes such as receiving offerings or ac-
commodating the gods during festivals. A path skirts Pura Penataran Agung's perimeter wall,
from which you can see most of the terraces (the best views are from the west side). A gi-
ant stairway, lined by seven levels of
carved figures
, leads to the first courtyard; the figures
to the left are from the Mahabharata and the ones to the right from the Ramayana. As wor-
shippers process through the first courtyard they symbolically sever their connection with the
everyday world before proceeding through the
kori agung
into the second courtyard, which
contains the
padmatiga
, the three-seated lotus throne dedicated to Brahma, Siwa and Wisnu,
where all pilgrims pray.
Beyond Pura Penataran Agung, the
meru
of
Pura Batu Madeg
, rising among the trees to
the north, are enticing, while
Pura Pengubengan
, the most far-flung of Besakih's temples,
is a good 2km through the forest. As you wander around the complex, look out for represent-
ations of the manifestations of the supreme god, in particular differently coloured
flags and
banners
: black for Wisnu (the Preserver), red for Brahma (the Creator) and a multicoloured
array for Siwa (the Destroyer).
GUIDES AT BESAKIH
Besakih has established an appalling reputation over the last decade as a place of nonstop
hassle. The problem stemmed from the hundreds of local men who styled themselves as
guides
,
guardians
or
keepers
of the temple, insistently attached themselves to tourists and
then demanded large sums in payment for their “services”. The official advice is to engage
only properly badged guides; they can be found at the tourist office. In truth, guides are
hardly needed: stick to the paths running along the walls outside the temples, wear a sarong
and sash, and you'll be in no danger of causing any religious offence. If you do employ a
guide, establish the
fee
beforehand: Rp50,000 is a reasonable amount. If you're escorted
into one of the temples to receive a blessing you'll be expected to make a “donation” to the
priest, the amount negotiable through your guide.
If you're on a private tour, your driver should be able to offer tips on how to negotiate
these pitfalls, but he is forbidden to guide you or translate for you and won't be able to
negotiate on your behalf.
