Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The east of Bali is dominated both physically and spiritually by the majestic, picture-
perfect volcanic cone of Gunung Agung. The Balinese orientate their villages and homes
towards this mountain, literally “Great Mountain”, and after a few days in the region
you'll probably fall under its spell too. Immediately beneath its awesome bulk unfurls a
landscape of dense forests, narrow river valleys and sweeping rice terraces, making for
a scenic drive, or hike, whichever direction you travel in. By contrast, the land to the far
east of Gunung Agung, especially around the coastal centres of Amed and Tulamben,
lies within the rain shadow and is much drier and less productive, and correspondingly
poorer.
Most of east Bali comes under the administrative district of
Karangasem
, where villagers
still follow a traditional way of life, mostly living off the land or from the sea. There are tour-
ist centres but on a far smaller scale than in the south or around Ubud, and the lack of crowds,
absence of commercial pressures and refreshingly unadulterated green vistas are a large part
of the east's appeal. With Bali being so small, you can easily base yourself in this part of the
island without missing any of the highlights.
The main tourist hubs are along the coast, particularly at
Candidasa
, a low-key resort that
compensates for its less than perfect beaches with good facilities and handy transport connec-
tions. Nearby, funky little
Padang Bai
is the main port for boats to the Gili Islands and Lom-
bok, and also makes a decent diving base in its own right. The biggest-hitting
dive centres
,
though, are in the northeast, at
Amed
, which has lots of accommodation and plenty of reef
close to shore, and nearby
Tulamben
, site of a famous shoreside wreck.
Inland,
Gunung Agung
and its Mother Temple,
Besakih
, are major attractions. Climbing
this most magnificent of volcanoes is a significant challenge, but a rewarding one. The
temple, however, can disappoint, as much for its persistent touts as for its sometimes misty
outlook.
You might find some of the region's other temples more satisfying, especially the venerable
Pura Kehen in
Bangli
, with its splendid sculptures. The east also has a rich artistic heritage
associated with its ancient courts:
Semarapura
and the nearby painters' village of
Kamasan
keep the traditional art of classical
wayang
painting alive, while there's a chance to enjoy
palace architecture at the Puri Agung in
Amlapura
. The district capital of
Gianyar
is justly
famous for its beautiful
endek
weaving, and there's even more exquisite textile art, in the
form of the rare double
ikat
, produced at
Tenganan
, a traditional Bali Aga village that's
home to descendants of the early inhabitants of Bali. For classic rice-terrace vistas and village
walks, it's hard to beat a stay in
Tirtagangga
or
Sidemen
, both offering attractive accom-
modation in tranquil settings.
