Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ubud
Ever since the German artist Walter Spies arrived here in 1927, UBUD has been a magnet
for any tourist with the slightest curiosity about Balinese arts and traditions. It is now a fully
fledged resort, visited by nearly every holiday-maker on the island, even if only as part of a
day-trip.
Although it's fashionable to characterize Ubud as the “real” Bali, especially in contrast with
Kuta, it bears little resemblance to a typical Balinese town. Organic cafés, riverside bunga-
lows and craft shops crowd its centre, chic expat homes and international hotels overlook
panoramic scenery, and side streets are dotted with spas and alternative treatment centres.
There's even a Starbucks. There is major development along the central thoroughfare, Jalan
Wanara Wana, known to everyone by its unofficial name of Jalan Monkey Forest , and the
core village has expanded to take in the neighbouring hamlets of Campuhan , Penestanan ,
Sanggingan , Nyuhkuning , Padang Tegal , Pengosekan and Peliatan .
That said, traditional practices are still fundamental to daily life and the atmosphere is an ap-
pealing blend of ethnic integrity and tourist-friendly comforts. The local people really do still
paint, carve, dance and make music, and hardly a day goes by without some kind of religious
festival. Appropriately, Ubud is a recognized centre of spiritual tourism , a place where vis-
itors can experience indigenous (and imported) healing practices.
The surrounding region gives ample opportunity for exploration, and shopping is a major
pastime too, with Balinese carvers and painters selling their wares alongside expat fashion
designers and artists. Ubud's restaurants and accommodation set the town apart, as well:
imaginative menus are the norm here, and hotels and homestays tend to be small and charm-
ing. The town is also a convenient base or stopover on a wider trip: Gunung Batur is just
40km north; local agencies offer sunrise treks up Gunung Agung; and it takes less than two
hours to reach the east-coast beach of Candidasa.
FESTIVALS IN UBUD
Ubud hosts an annual literary festival , the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival ( ubud-
writersfestival.com ), every October, and the Bali Spirit Festival of world music, dance and
yoga every March ( balispiritfestival.com ) .
Brief history
Ubud's emphasis on the arts really evolved at the beginning of the twentieth century: before
then its energy had been concentrated on fighting other Balinese kingdoms and then the
Dutch. In 1900 the Ubud court was obliged to join its neighbour, the Gianyar royal family,
in asking for the protection of the Netherlands Indies government against other land-hungry
rajas. As a Dutch protectorate with no more wars to fight, the ruling Sukawati family and
 
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