Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(Rp125,000), pan-roast snapper (Rp183,000) and pizzas (Rp168,000) - things can get pricey
for dinner. Daily 11am-11pm.
Kendi Kuning Just north of Bali Club Med 0361 775720. One of the best-value options
for feet-in-the-sand dining, this shady beachside place serves up drinks and an Indonesian
and international menu. Expect club sandwiches, tiger prawns in a laksa sauce (Rp97,000)
and charcoal-grilled catch of the day. Daily 10am-11pm.
Nelayan Jl Pratama 101, Tanjung Benoa 0361 776868. Deservedly popular mid-priced
place that is set far enough back from the road to avoid traffic noise. Seafood is the speciality
- a mixed feast of lobster, shrimp and squid costs Rp105,000 - but it has a good selection
of international and Indonesian dishes, including Balinese curries. Free local transport. Daily
noon-10.30pm.
Surya Café Jl Segara 21, Tanjung Benoa 0361 772016. Fish and seafood priced by weight
and fresh from the tank in a restaurant open to the theatre of boats whizzing past. At around
Rp200,000/kilo for fish, it isn't especially cheap, but it's fun to sit and watch the life on the
water. Daily 11am-10pm.
< Back to South Bali
Denpasar
Despite the traffic congestion, despite the ever-expanding sprawl, Bali's capital remains a
rather pleasant city at heart. Downtown DENPASAR is centred on a grassy square, Alun-
alun Puputan , and has just a few major shopping streets in its core. Department stores and
air-conditioned malls are mushrooming in southern districts - modern Denpasar is epitom-
ized by Jalan Teuku Umar , a neon-lit strip crammed with restaurants and shopping centres
- which leaves these central older neighbourhoods rather bereft of modern life. Maybe that's
the appeal - these areas are still dominated by family compounds grouped into traditional
banjar (village association) districts. There is also a marked influence of the sizeable immig-
rant communities, notably Javanese Muslims, Sasaks from Lombok and Chinese-Indonesi-
ans, who together constitute a large minority of the city's population of more than 835,000.
Most tourists whizz in on a day-trip from the southern resorts, lingering just long enough
to tour the Bali Museum and neighbouring state temple, Pura Agung Jagatnata , and per-
haps to browse the traditional markets such as Pasar Badung , a huge covered affair beside
the Badung River. Very few stay overnight. While these are its main sights as such, handily
all within walking distance of each other, the relative dearth of tourists - and accompanying
hoopla - is appealing in itself. Denpasar offers a rare chance to experience genuine urban
Bali, not to mention cheaper food and shopping than elsewhere on the island.
 
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