Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
(4) Let the surface dry for an hour or so (maybe less or more, but make notes), then cover
with a piece of cardboard or your wooden board. If the room is warm you won't need
to insulate it; if cool, insulate with a blanket so the mix doesn't cool too fast
(5) When the soap has cured for three days, turn it onto a safe surface, and cut to size
using a large, sharp knife. Set pieces of soap on a rack or board, and let cure in the
open air for another thirty days. The individual bars will shrink a bit during the airing
process.
(6) When finished, decorate and wrap for gifts or use it yourself.
M
ILK AND
H
ONEY
S
OAP
This soap recipe uses only honey, but experimentation later could allow some beeswax
to be added. Dave's advice to keep records holds especially well here. You can vary
the oil ratios to enrich the finished product with different colors, textures, lathering cap-
ability, hardness or softness, moisturizing ability, dryness, or even healing ability. No
matter what oils you use the ratio of oil to lye must remain steady so the saponification
process (changing the fatty acids in the oils to soap using an alkali, in this case sodium
hydroxide) is completed.
Assemble your tools and ingredients, and measure out all ingredients before you begin.
Add the water to the stainless steel container in a well-ventilated place, or preferably
outside to avoid encountering any fumes. Add the lye to the water in a steady pour and
stir until dissolved and the fumes have dissipated. You have to stir immediately to pre-
vent the lye from forming a solid block that won't dissolve, ever. You can leave your
