ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 929

PiazzaNavonaisRome'smostinterestingnightscene,withstreetmusic,artists,fire-eat-
ers, local Casanovas, ice cream, and outdoor cafés that are worthy of a splurge if you've got
time to sit and enjoy Italy's human river.
• Leave Piazza Navona directly across from Tre Scalini (famous for its rich chocolate ice
cream), and go east down Corsia Agonale, past rose peddlers and palm readers. Jog left
around the guarded building (where Italy's senate meets), and follow the brown sign to the
Pantheon, which is straight down Via del Salvatore.
The Pantheon: Sit for a while under the portico of the Pantheon (romantically floodlit
and moonlit at night).
The 40-foot, single-piece granite columns of the Pantheon's entrance show the scale the
ancient Romans built on. The columns support a triangular Greek-style roof with an inscrip-
tion that says “M. Agrippa” built it. In fact, it was built (fecit) by Emperor Hadrian ( A.D.
120), who gave credit to the builder of an earlier structure. This impressive entranceway
gives no clue that the greatest wonder of the building is inside—a domed room that inspired
later domes, including Michelangelo's St. Peter's and Brunelleschi's Duomo (in Florence).
If it's open, pop into the Pantheon for a look around (interior described on here ) . If you
have extra time, consider detouring to several interesting churches near the Pantheon (listed
on here ).
• With your back to the Pantheon, veer to the right, uphill toward the yellow sign that reads
Casa del Caffè at the Tazza d'Oro coffee shop on Via Orfani.
From the Pantheon to the Trevi Fountain: Tazza d'Oro Casa del Caffè, one of
Rome's top coffee shops, dates back to the days when this area was licensed to roast coffee
beans. Locals come here for a shot of espresso or, when it's hot, a refreshing granita di caffè
con panna (coffee slush with cream).
• Continue up Via Orfani to...
Piazza Capranica is home to the big, plain Florentine Renaissance-style Palazzo
Capranica (directly opposite as you enter the square). Big shots, like the Capranica family,
built towers on their palaces—not for any military use, but just to show off.
• Leave the piazza to the right of the palace, heading down Via in Aquiro.
The street Via inAquiro leads toa sixth-century B.C. Egyptian obelisk taken as a trophy
by Augustus after his victory in Egypt over Mark Antony and Cleopatra. The obelisk was
set up as a sundial. Follow the zodiac markings to the well-guarded front door. This is
Italy's parliamentbuilding, wherethelowerhousemeets;youmayseepoliticians,political
demonstrations, and TV cameras.
• To your right is Piazza Colonna, where we're heading next—unless you like gelato...
A one-block detour to the left (past Albergo Nazionale) brings you to Rome's most fam-
ous gelateria . Giolitti's is cheap for takeout or elegant and splurge-worthy for a sit among