Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
From Via del Corso, window-shoppers should take a left down
Via Condotti
to join the
paradetothe
SpanishSteps.
Thestreetsthatparallel ViaCondottitothesouth(Borgognona
and Frattina) are more elegant and filled with high-end boutiques. A few streets to the north
hidesthenarrowViaMargutta.ThisiswhereGregoryPeck's
RomanHoliday
characterlived
(at #51); today it has a leafy tranquility and is filled with pricey artisan shops.
Historians: Ignore Via Condotti and forget the Spanish Steps. Stay on Via del Corso,
which has been straight since Roman times, and walk a half-mile down to the Victor Em-
manuelMonument.ClimbMichelangelo'sstairwaytohisglorious(especiallywhenfloodlit)
square atop Capitoline Hill. Stand on the balcony (just past the mayor's palace on the right),
which overlooks the Forum. As the horizon reddens and cats prowl the unclaimed rubble of
ancient Rome, it's one of the finest views in the city.
Rome's most colorful neighborhood features narrow lanes, intimate piazzas, fanciful foun-
tains, and some of Europe's best people-watching. During the day, this walk shows off the
colorful Campo de' Fiori market and trendy fashion boutiques as it meanders past major
monuments such as the Pantheon and the Spanish Steps.
But, when the sun sets, unexpected magic happens. A stroll in the cool of the evening
brings out all the romance of the Eternal City. Sit so close to a bubbling fountain that traffic
noiseevaporates.Jostlewithkidstoseethegelatoflavors.Watchloversstraddlingmorethan
the bench. Jaywalk past
polizia
in flak-proof vests. And marvel at the ramshackle elegance
that softens this brutal city for those who were born here and can't imagine living anywhere
else. These are the flavors of Rome, best tasted after dark.
This walk is equally pleasant in reverse order. You could ride the Metro to the Spanish
Steps and finish at Campo de' Fiori, near many recommended restaurants. To lengthen this
• Start this walk at Campo de' Fiori, my favorite outdoor dining room (especially after
dark—see“EatinginRome,”
here
).It'safewblockseastofLargoArgentina,amajortrans-
portation hub. Buses #40, #64, and #492 stop at both Largo Argentina and along Corso Vit-
torio Emanuele II, a long block north of Campo de' Fiori. A taxi from Termini Station costs
about €8.
Campode'Fiori:
OneofRome'smostcolorfulspots,thisbohemianpiazzahostsafruit
and vegetable
market
in the morning, cafés in the evening, and pub-crawlers at night. In
ancient times, the “Field of Flowers” was an open meadow. Later, Christian pilgrims passed
through on their way to the Vatican, and a thriving market developed.
