Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ThisisthespectacleeveryvisitortoLondonhastoseeatleastonce:stone-faced,red-coated,
bearskin-hatted guards changing posts with much fanfare, in an hour-long ceremony accom-
panied by a brass band.
It's 11:00 at Buckingham Palace, and the on-duty guards (the “Queen's Guard”) are
ready to finish their shift. Nearby at St. James's Palace (a half-mile northwest), a second set
ofguardsisalsoreadyforabreak.Meanwhile,freshreplacement guards(the“NewGuard”)
gather for a review and inspection at Wellington Barracks, 500 yards east of the palace (on
Birdcage Walk).
At 11:15, the tired St. James's guards head out to the Mall, and then take a right turn for
Buckingham Palace. At 11:30, the replacement troops, led by the band, also head for Buck-
ingham Palace. Meanwhile, a fourth group—the Horse Guard—passes by along the Mall on
its way back to Hyde Park Corner from its own changing-of-the-guard ceremony on White-
hall (which just took place at Horse Guards Parade at 11:00, or 10:00 on Sun). At 11:45, the
tired and fresh guards converge on Buckingham Palace in a perfect storm of Red Coat pa-
geantry. Everyone parades around, the guard changes (passing the regimental flag, or “col-
our”) with much shouting, the band plays a happy little concert, and then they march out.
At noon, two bands escort two detachments of guards away: the tired guards to Wellington
Barracks and the fresh guards to St. James's Palace. As the fresh guards set upat St. James's
Palace and the tired ones dress down at the barracks, the tourists disperse.
Cost and Hours:
Free, daily May-July at 11:30, every other day Aug-April, no ce-
remony in very wet weather; exact schedule subject to change—call 020/7766-7300 for
the day's plan, or check
www.changing-the-guard.com
or
www.royalcollection.org.uk
(click
“Visit,” then “Changing the Guard”); Buckingham Palace, Tube: Victoria, St. James's Park,
or Green Park. Or hop into a big black taxi and say, “Buck House, please.”
Sightseeing Strategies:
Most tourists just show up and get lost in the crowds, but those
who know the drill will enjoy the event more. The action takes place in stages over the
course of an hour, at several different locations. The main event is in the forecourt right
in front of Buckingham Palace (between Buckingham Palace and the fence) from 11:30 to
12:00. To see it close up, you'll need to get here no later than 10:30 to get a place right next
to the fence.
But there's plenty of pageantry elsewhere. Get out your map and strategize. You could
see the guards mobilizing at Wellington Barracks or St. James's Palace (11:00-11:15). Or
watch them parade with bands down The Mall and Spur Road (11:15-11:30). After the cere-
mony at Buckingham Palace is over (and many tourists have gotten bored and gone home),
the parades march back along those same streets (12:10).
