Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
In 1679, Vienna was hit by a massive epidemic of bubonic plague. Around 75,000 Vi-
ennese died—about a third of the city. Emperor Leopold I dropped to his knees (something
emperorsneverdidinpublic)andbeggedGodtosavethecity.(FindLeopoldaboutaquarter
of the way up the monument, just above the brown banner. Hint: The typical inbreeding of
royal families left him with a gaping underbite.) His prayer was heard by Lady Faith (the
statue below Leopold, carrying a cross). With the help of a heartless little cupid, she tosses
an old naked woman—symbolizing the plague—into the abyss and saves the city. In gratit-
ude, Leopold vowed to erect this monument, which became a model for other cities ravaged
by the same plague.
• Thirty yards past the plague monument, look down the short street to the right, which
frames a Baroque church with a stately green dome.
St. Peter's Church
Leopold I ordered this church to be built as a thank-you for surviving the 1679 plague.
The church stands on the site of a much older church that may have been Vienna's first (or
second) Christian church. Inside, St. Peter's shows Vienna at its Baroque best. Note that the
church offers free organ concerts (Mon-Fri at 15:00, Sat-Sun at 20:00).
• Continue west on Graben, where you'll immediately find some stairs leading underground
to...
Loos' Loos
In about 1900, a local chemical-maker needed a publicity stunt to prove that his chemicals
really got things clean. He purchased two wine cellars under Graben and had them turned
into classy WCs in the Modernist style (designed by Adolf Loos—Vienna's answer to Frank
Lloyd Wright), complete with chandeliers and finely crafted mahogany. While the chande-
liers are gone, the restrooms remain a relatively appealing place to do your business—in
fact,they'resoinvitingthatthey'reusedforpoetryreadings.Localsandtouristshappilypay
€0.50 for a quick visit.
• Graben dead-ends at the aristocratic supermarket Julius Meinl am Graben. From here,
turn left. In the distance is the big green-and-gold dome of the Hofburg, where we'll head
soon. The street leading up to the Hofburg is...
Kohlmarkt
This is Vienna's most elegant and unaffordable shopping street, lined with Cartier, Armani,
Gucci, Tiffany, and the emperor's palace at the end. Strolling Kohlmarkt, daydream about
the edible window displays at
Demel,
the ultimate Viennese chocolate shop (#14, daily
