Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Viewing this monument gains even more emotional impact when you realize what
happened on this spot: During a WWII bombing attack, several hundred people were buried
alive when the cellar they were using as shelter was demolished.
Austria was led into World War II by Germany, which annexed the country in 1938, say-
ingAustrianswerewannabeGermansanyway.ButAustriansarenotGermans—neverwere,
neverwillbe.They'requicktoproudlytellyouthatAustriawasfoundedinthe10thcentury,
whereasGermanywasn'tbornuntil1870.ForsevenyearsjustbeforeandduringWorldWar
II (1938-1945), there was no Austria. In 1955, after 10 years of joint occupation by the vic-
torious Allies, Austria regained total independence on the condition that it would be forever
neutral (and never join NATO or the Warsaw Pact). To this day, Austria is outside of NATO
(and Germany).
Behind the monument is Café Tirolerhof, a classic Viennese café full of things that
time has passed by: chandeliers, marble tables, upholstered booths, waiters in tuxes, and
newspapers. For more on Vienna's cafés, see here .
Often parked nearby are the Red Bus City Tour buses, offering a handy way to get a
quick overview of the city (see “Tours in Vienna,” earlier).
•From the café, turnright onFührichsgasse, passing the cafeteria-style Rosenberger Markt
Restaurant. Walk one block until you hit...
Kärntner Strasse
This grand, traffic-free street is the people-watching delight of this in-love-with-life city.
Today's Kärntner Strasse (KAYRNT-ner SHTRAH-seh) is mostly a crass commercial ped-
estrian mall—its famed elegant shops long gone. But locals know it's the same road Cru-
saders marched down as they headed off from St. Stephen's Cathedral for the Holy Land in
the 12th century. Its name indicates that it leads south, toward the region of Kärnten (Carin-
thia,aprovincedividedbetweenAustriaandSlovenia).Todayit'sfullofshoppersandstreet
musicians.
Where Führichsgasse meets Kärntner Strasse, note the city Casino (across the street and
a half-block to your right, at #41)—once venerable, now tacky, it exemplifies the worst of
the street's evolution. Turn left to head up Kärntner Strasse, going away from the Opera.
As you walk along, be sure to look up, above the modern storefronts, for glimpses of the
street's former glory. Near the end of the block, on the left at #26, J & L Lobmeyr Crystal
(“Foundedin1823”)still hasitsimpressive brownstorefront withgoldtrim, statues, andthe
Habsburg double-eagle. In the market for some $400 napkin rings? Lobmeyr's your place.
Inside, breathe in the classic Old World ambience as youclimb upto the glass museum (free
entry, Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, closed Sun).
 
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