GERMANY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 622

If the Zum Kleinen Monning is dead, another late-night spot for drinks (and pizza) is
ZurAltBackstubb (seatinginsideandout,€7pastasandpizzas,nightlyuntillate,Blücher-
strasse 16). Also try Jugendherberge Stahleck —Bacharach's youth hostel—where the pub
servescheaplocalwineandsnacksuntilmidnightinsummer(listedearlier,under“Sleeping
in Bacharach”).
Wine-Tasting
(See “Bacharach” map, here . )
Bacharach is proud of its wine. Two places in town—Bastian's rowdy and rustic Grüner
Baum,andthemoresophisticatedWeingutKarlHeidrich—offervisitorsaninexpensivetast-
ing memory. Each creates carousels of local wines that small groups of travelers (who don't
mindsharingaglass)cansampleandcompare.Bothplacesofferlightplatesoffoodifyou'd
like a rustic meal.
At Bastian's Weingut zum Grüner Baum, groups of 2-6 people pay €19.50 for a wine
carouselof15glasses—14differentwhitewinesandonelonelyrosé—andabasketofbread.
Yourmission:Teamupwithotherswhohavethisbooktorendezvoushereafterdinner.Spin
the Lazy Susan, share a common cup, and discuss the taste. Doris Bastian insists: “After
each wine, you must talk to each other” (Mon-Wed and Fri from 13:00, Sat-Sun from 12:00,
closed Thu and Jan-mid-March, just past Altes Haus, tel. [phone]). To make a meal of
a carousel, consider the €8 Käseteller (seven different cheeses—including Spundekäse, the
local soft cheese—with bread and butter).
Weingut Karl Heidrich is a fun family-run wine shop and Stube in the town center
(at Oberstrasse 16), where Markus and daughter Magdalena proudly share their family's
centuries-old wine tradition, explaining its fine points to travelers. They offer a variety of
carouselswithsixwines,Englishdescriptions,andbread(€11.80)—idealforthemoresoph-
isticated wine taster—plus light meals (Thu-Tue 11:00-22:00, closed Wed and Nov-Easter,
will ship to the US, tel. [phone]).
Bacharach Connections
Train Connections from the Rhine
Milk-run trains stop at Rhine towns each hour starting as early as 6:00, connecting at Mainz
and Koblenz to trains farther afield. Trains between St. Goar and Bacharach depart at about
:20 after the hour in each direction (€3.40, buy tickets from the machine in the unstaffed
stations). The ride times listed below are calculated from Bacharach; for St. Goar, the differ-
ence is only 10 minutes. Train info: Tel. [phone], www.bahn.com .