GERMANY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 620

cash only, non-smoking, free Wi-Fi, free loaner bikes for guests, parking, Blücherstrasse 60,
tel. [phone], www.pension-winzerhaus.de , [e-mail] ).
$ Irmgard Orth B&B rents three fresh rooms, two of which share a bathroom on the
hall. Irmgard speaks almost no English, but is exuberantly cheery and serves homemade
honey with breakfast (S-€22-25, D-€36-38, Db-€38-40, higher price is for one-night stay,
cash only, non-smoking, no Internet access, Spurgasse 2, look for Honig signs with picture
of a beehive, tel. [phone], speak slowly).
$ Jugendherberge Stahleck hostel is a 12th-century castle on the hilltop—350 steps
above Bacharach—with a royal Rhine view. Open to travelers of any age, this is a gem
with 168 beds and a private modern shower and WC in most rooms. The hostel offers
hearty €7.50 all-you-can-eat buffet dinners, and in summer its pub serves cheap local
wine and snacks until midnight. If you're arriving at the train station with luggage, it's an
€8.50 taxi ride to the hostel—call 06743/1653 (€20 dorm beds with breakfast and sheets,
nonmembers-€3.10 extra, couples can share one of five €51 Db, non-smoking, pay Internet
access and Wi-Fi, laundry-€6; reception open 7:30-20:00, call if arriving later and check in
at bar until 21:30; curfew at 22:00, tel. [phone], www.diejugendherbergen.de , bachar-
[e-mail] ). If driving, don't go in the driveway; park on the street and
walk 200 yards.
Eating in Bacharach
Restaurants
(See “Bacharach” map, here . )
Bacharachhasnoshortageofreasonablypriced,atmosphericrestaurantsofferingfineindoor
and outdoor dining. Two of my recommended hotels—Rhein and Kranenturm—have good
restaurants. Non-German options on the main street include a pizzeria and Döner Kebab
joint (open daily until late) and an Irish pub.
TheRheinHotel's StüberRestaurant isBacharach'sbesttop-endchoice.ChefAndreas
Stüber, his family's sixth-generation chef, prepares regional, seasonal plates, served at river-
and track-side seating or indoors with a spacious wood-and-white-tablecloth elegance. Con-
sider his €16 William Turner pâté sampler plate, named after the British painter who liked
Bacharach (€12-22 main courses, €27-37 fixed-price meals, always a good vegetarian op-
tion, open Wed-Mon 11:30-14:15 & 17:30-21:15, closed Tue and mid-Dec-Feb, call to re-
serve on weekends or for an outdoor table, facing the K-D boat dock below town center,
Langstrasse 50, tel. [phone]).
Hotel Kranenturm is another good value, with hearty dinners (Kurt prides himself on
his Sauerbraten —marinated beef with potato dumplings and red cabbage) and good main-