Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Services: A helpful TI, bus stop, ATM, WC (€0.30), and telephones cluster around the
main intersection a couple hundred yards before you get to the ticket office (TI open
daily April-Sept 10:00-18:00, Oct-March 11:00-17:00, tel. 08362/81980,
www.schwangau.de ) .
Eating: Bringapackedlunch.TheparkbytheAlpsee(thenearbylake)isidealforapicnic,
although you're not allowed to sit on the grass—only on the benches (you could also
eat out on the lake in one of the old-fashioned rowboats, rented by the hour in summer).
There are no grocery shops by the castles, but you can buy sandwiches and hot dogs
across from the TI and at the Hotel Alpenstuben. The restaurants in the “village” at the
foot of Europe's Disney castle are mediocre, feeding off the endless droves of hungry,
shop-happytourists.The Bräustüberlcafeteria servesthecheapestgrub,butisn'tlikely
to be a highlight of your visit (€6-7 gut-bomb grill meals, often with live folk music,
daily 10:00-18:00, close to end of road and lake).
Sights at the King's Castles
▲▲▲ Hohenschwangau Castle
Standing quietly below Neuschwanstein, the big, yellow Hohenschwangau Castle was Lud-
wig's boyhood home. Originally built in the 12th century, it was ruined by Napoleon. Lud-
wig's father, King Maximilian II, rebuilt it in 1830. Hohenschwangau (hoh-en-SHVAHN-
gow,looselytranslatedas“HighSwanland”)wasusedbytheroyalfamilyasasummerhunt-
ing lodge until 1912.
The interior decor is harmonious, cohesive, and original—all done in 1835, with paint-
ings inspired by Romantic themes. The Wittelsbach family (which ruled Bavaria for nearly
seven centuries) still owns the place (and lived in the annex—today's shop—until the
1970s).Asyoutourthecastle,imaginehowthepaintingsmusthaveinspiredyoungLudwig.
For 17 years, he lived here at his dad's place and followed the construction of his dream
castle across the way—you'll see the telescope still set up and directed at Neuschwanstein.
The excellent 30-minute tours give a better glimpse of Ludwig's life than the more-vis-
ited and famous Neuschwanstein Castle tour. Tours here are smaller (35 people rather than
60) and more relaxed.
▲▲▲
▲▲▲ Neuschwanstein Castle
Imagine “Mad” King Ludwig as a boy, climbing the hills above his dad's castle, Ho-
henschwangau, dreaming up the ultimate fairy-tale castle. Inheriting the throne at the young
age of 18, he had the power to make his dream concrete and stucco. Neuschwanstein (noy-
SHVAHN-shtine, roughly “New Swanstone”) was designed first by a theater-set design-
▲▲▲
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