Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
center stage). Amazingly, part of this square was a parking lot until 1980, when the mayor
of Nice had an underground garage built.
ThefirstsectionisdevotedtotheRiviera'slargestflowermarket(alldayTue-Sunandin
operation since the 19th century). Here you'll find plants and flowers that grow effortlessly
andubiquitouslyinthisclimate,includingthelocalfavorites:carnations,roses,andjasmine.
Not long ago, this region supplied all of France with its flowers; today, many are imported
from Africa (the glorious orchids are from Kenya). Still, fresh flowers are perhaps the best
value in this city.
Theboisterousproducesectiontrumpetstheseasonwithmushrooms,strawberries,white
asparagus, zucchini flowers, and more—whatever's fresh gets top billing. Find your way
down the center and buy something healthy.
The market opens up at Place Pierre Gautier (also called Plassa dou
Gouvernou—bilingual street signs include the old Niçoise language, an Italian dialect). This
is where farmers set up stalls to sell their produce and herbs directly.
Continue down the center of Cours Saleya, stopping when you see La Cambuse restaur-
ant on your left. In front, hovering over the black-barrel fire with the paella-like pan on top,
is the self-proclaimed
Queen of the Market,
Thérèse. She's cooking
socca,
Nice's chick-
pea crêpe specialty (until about 13:00). Spend €3 for a wad (careful—it's hot, but good). If
Thérèse doesn't have a pan out, that means it's on its way (watch for the frequent scooter
deliveries). Wait in line...or else it'll be all gone when you return.
• Continue down Cours Saleya. The fine golden building that seals the end of the square is
where Henri Matisse spent 17 years with a brilliant view onto Nice's world. The
Café les
Ponchettes
is perfectly positioned for a people-watching break. Turn at the café onto...
Rue de la Poissonnerie:
Look up at the first floor of the first building on your right.
AdamandEve
aresquaringoff,eachholdingazucchini-likegourd.Thisscene(post-apple)
represents the annual rapprochement in Nice to make up for the sins of a too-much-fun
Carnival (Mardi Gras, the pre-Lenten festival). Residents of Nice have partied hard during
Carnival for more than 700 years.
A few steps ahead, check out the small
Baroque church
(Notre-Dame-de-
l'Annonciation) dedicated to St. Rita, the patron saint of desperate causes. She holds a spe-
cial place in locals' hearts, making this the most popular church in Nice.
• Turn right on the next street, where you'll pass Vieux Nice's most happening café/bar,
Distilleries Ideales,
with a lively happy hour (18:00-20:00) and a
Pirates of the Caribbean
-
style interior.
Now turn left on “Right” Street (Rue Droite), and enter an area that feels like a Little
Naples.
