Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
more than 400 years. For 150 years, this system provided Nîmes with good drinking water.
Expert as the Romans were, they miscalculated the backup caused by a downstream corner,
and had to add the thin extra layer you can see just under the lid to make the channel deeper.
Thebridgeandtheriverbelowprovidegreatfunforholiday-goers.Whileparentssuntan
onrocks,kidssplashintothegorgefromundertheaqueduct.Somedaredevilsactually jump
from the aqueduct's lower bridge—not knowing that crazy winds scrambled by the structure
cause painful belly flops (and sometimes even accidental deaths). For the most refreshing
view, float flat on your back underneath the structure.
The appearance of the entire gorge changed in 2002, when a huge flood flushed lots
of greenery downstream. Those floodwaters put Roman provisions to the test. Notice the
triangular-shaped buttresses at the lower level—designed to split and divert the force of any
flood around the feet of the arches rather than into them. The 2002 floodwaters reached the
topofthose buttresses. Anxiousparkrangers winced at the soundsoftrees crashing ontothe
ancient stones...but the arches stood strong.
Thestonesthatjutout—givingtheaqueductarough,unfinishedappearance—supported
the original scaffolding. The protuberances were left, rather than cut off, in anticipation of
future repair needs. The lips under the arches supported wooden templates that allowed the
stones in the round arches to rest on something until the all-important keystone was dropped
intoplace.Eachstoneweighsfourtosixtons.Thestructurestandswithnomortar(exceptat
the very top, where the water flowed)—taking full advantage of the innovative Roman arch,
made strong by gravity.
Hike over the bridge for a closer look and the best views. Steps lead up a high trail
(marked panorama ) to a superb viewpoint (go right at the top; best views are soon after
the trail starts descending). You'll also see where the aqueduct meets a rock tunnel. Walk
through the tunnel and continue for a bit, following a trail that meanders along the canal's
path.
Backonthemuseumside,stepsleaduptotheRiveGauche(parkinglot)endoftheaque-
duct, where you can follow the canal path along a trail (marked with red-and-white hori-
zontal lines) to find some remains of the Roman canal. You'll soon reach another panorama
with great views of the aqueduct. Hikers can continue along the path, following the red-and-
white markings that lead through a forest, after which you'll come across more remains of
the canal (much of which are covered by vegetation). There's not much left to see because
of medieval cannibalization—frugal builders couldn't resist the precut stones as they con-
structed area churches (stones along the canal were easier to retrieve than those high up on
the aqueduct). The path continues for about 15 miles, but there's little reason to go farther.
However, there is talk of opening the ancient quarry...someday.
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