FRANCE - Best of Europe 2014 - page 467

Eating in Avignon
Dining on a Square
Skip the overpriced, underwhelming restaurants on Place de l'Horloge and find a more in-
timate location for your dinner. Avignon is riddled with delightful squares filled with tables
ready to seat you.
Near the Church of St. Pierre
(See “Avignon Hotels & Restaurants” map, here . )
The church stands between two enchanting squares: Quiet and intimate Place St. Pierre
(where L'Epicerie sits alone), and, just under the nearby arch, lively and enchanting Place
des Châtaignes, with a fun commotion of tables—peruse your options.
LaVacheàCarreaux veneratescheeseandwine(whileofferingafullrangeofcuisine).
The colorful decor is fun, and the wine list is extensive and reasonable. This place is a hit
with locals, who gather around outside, sipping €4 glasses of good wine, reluctant to leave
(€12-18 plats , open daily, just off Place des Châtaignes at 14 Rue de la Peyrollerie, tel. 04
90 80 09 05).
L'Epicerie, homey inside and out, serves top cuisine with a focus on products from the
south of France—expect lots of color and a dash of spice (€35 menu, €18-25 plats, daily, 10
Place St. Pierre, tel. [phone]).
Other Place des Châtaignes Options: The Crêperie du Cloître makes mediocre dinner
crêpes and salads (daily, cash only). Next door and across from La Vache à Carreaux is the
family-runVietnamese RestaurantNem ( menus from€12,cashonly). CoinCaché islight-
hearted, with decidedly French fare (€6 starters and desserts, €15 plats , closed Tue). Pause
Gourmande is a small, lunch-only eatery with €9 plats du jour, and always has a veggie
option (closed Sun, around the corner and behind the church).
Place des Corps-Saints: This untouristy yet welcoming square is my favorite place
for simple outdoor dining in Avignon. You'll find several youthful and reasonable eateries
with tables sprawling under big plane trees. Bistrot à Tartines specializes in—you guessed
it— tartines (big slices of toast smothered with toppings), and has the coziest interior and
best desserts on the square (€8 tartines and salads, €10 lunch menu, daily, tel. [phone]
70). Zeste isafriendly,moderndeliofferingfreshsoups,pastasalads,wraps,smoothies,and
more.Getittogo,oreatinsideoronthescenicsquare—allatunbeatableprices(closedSun,
tel.[phone]). BoulangerieOlivero makesafinesettingforabudgetbreakfast,lunch,
or a light (and early) dinner. Monsieur Olivero makes a mean baguette and offers anyone
showing this topic a free croissant with any purchase. Enjoy your coffee, croissant, sand-
wich, or quiche at the outside tables (on the square near Rue des Lices, daily until 20:00).