Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Market (Les Halles):
In 1970, the town's open-air market was replaced by this modern
one. The market's jungle-like green wall reflects the changes of seasons and helps mitigate
its otherwise stark exterior (open Tue-Sun until 13:00, closed Mon, small TI inside open
Fri-Sun). Step inside for a sensual experience of organic breads, olives, and festival-of-
mold cheeses. Rue des Temptations cuts down the center. Cafés and cheese shops are on the
right—as far as possible from the stinky fish stalls on the left. Follow your nose away from
the fish and have a coffee with the locals.
• Exit out the back door of Les Halles, turn left on Rue de la Bonneterie (“Street of Hosi-
ery”), and track the street for five minutes to the plane trees, where it becomes...
Rue des Teinturiers:
This “Street of the Dyers” is a tie-dyed, tree- and stream-lined
lane,hometoearthycafésandgalleries.Thiswastheclothindustry'sdyeingandtextilecen-
ter in the 1800s. The stream is a branch of the Sorgue River. Those stylish Provençal fabrics
and patterns you see for sale everywhere were first made here, after a pattern imported from
India.
About three small bridges down, you'll pass the Grey Penitents chapel on the right. The
upper facade shows the GPs, who dressed up in robes and pointy hoods to do their anonym-
ous good deeds back in the 13th century (long before the KKK dressed this way). As you
stroll on, you'll see the work of amateur sculptors, who have carved whimsical car barriers
out of limestone.
Fun restaurants on this atmospheric street are recommended later, under “Eating in
Avignon.”
• Farther down Rue des Teinturiers, you'll come to the...
Waterwheel:
Standinghere,imaginetheSorgueRiver—whichhitsthemightyRhônein
Avignon—being broken into several canals in order to turn 23 such wheels. In about 1800,
water-wheels powered the town's industries. The little cogwheel above the big one could be
shoved into place, kicking another machine into gear behind the wall.
• To return to the real world, double back on Rue des Teinturiers and turn left on Rue des
Lices, which traces the first medieval wall. (Lice is the no-man's-land along a wall.) After
a long block, you'll pass a striking four-story building that was a home for the poor in
the 1600s, an army barracks in the 1800s, a fine-arts school in the 1900s, and is a deluxe
condominium today (much of this neighborhood is going high-class residential). Eventually
you'll return to Rue de la République, Avignon's main drag.
Most of Avignon's top sights are covered earlier by my self-guided walks. With more time,
consider these options.
