Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
about its state-of-the-art plumbing. The rooms are huge. The “pope's chapel” is twice the
size of the adjacent Avignon cathedral.
The last pope (or, technically, antipope, since by then Rome also had its own rival pope)
checked out in 1403 (escaping a siege), but the Church owned Avignon until the French
Revolution in 1789. During this interim period, the pope's “legate” (official representative,
normally a nephew) ruled Avignon from this palace. Avignon residents, many of whom had
comefromRome,spokeItalian foracenturyafterthepopeleft,makingitalinguistic ghetto
withinFrance.IntheNapoleonicage,thepalacewasabarracks,housing1,800soldiers.You
can see cuts in the wall where high ceilings gave way to floor beams. Climb the tower (Tour
de la Gâche) for grand views and a rooftop café with surprisingly good food at very fair
prices.
Wine Room:
A room at the end of the tour (called
la boutellerie
) is dedicated to the re-
gion's wines, of which they claim the pope was a fan. Sniff “Le Nez du Vin”—a black box
with 54 tiny bottles designed to develop your “nose.” (Blind-test your travel partner.) The
nearbyvillageofChâteauneuf-du-Papeiswherethepopesummeredinthe1320s.Itsfamous
wine is a direct descendant of his wine. You're welcome to taste here (€6 for 3-5 fine wines
and souvenir tasting cup). If it's only wine you want, go directly to the back entrance of the
palace and enter the boutique.
• You'll exit at the rear of the palace, where my “Back Streets” walking tour begins (de-
scribed next). Or, to return to Palace Square, make two rights after exiting the palace.
▲▲▲
Discovering Avignon's Back Streets
(See “Avignon” map,
here
.)
Use the map in this chapter or the TI map to navigate this easy, level, 30-minute walk. This
self-guided tour begins in the small square (Place de la Mirande) behind the Palace of the
Popes. If you've toured the palace, this is where you exit. Otherwise, from the front of the
palace, follow the narrow, cobbled Rue de la Peyrollerie—carved out of the rock—around
the palace on the right side as you face it.
• Our walk begins at the...
Hôtel La Mirande:
Located on the square, Avignon's finest hotel welcomes visitors.
Find the atrium lounge and consider a coffee break amid the understated luxury (€13 af-
ternoon tea served daily 15:00-18:00, includes a generous selection of pastries). Inspect the
royalloungeandrecommendeddiningroom;cookingdemosareofferedinthebasementbe-
low. Rooms start at about €425 in high season.
• Turn left out of the hotel and left again on Rue de la Peyrollerie (“Coppersmiths Street”),
then take your first right on Rue des Ciseaux d'Or. On the small square ahead you'll find
the...
