FRANCE - Best of Europe 2014 - page 443

Other Places near Place du Forum
(See “Arles Hotels & Restaurants” map, here . )
At La Cuisine de Comptoir, a cool little bistro, locals of all ages abandon Provençal decor.
Welcoming owners Alexandre and Vincent offer light tartine dinners—a delicious cross
between pizza and bruschetta, served with soup or salad for just €11 (a swinging deal—the
brandada istasty andfilling). Sitatthecounter andwatch lechef atworkasyousipyour€2
glass of rosé in fine glassware (closed Sun, mostly indoor dining, just off Place du Forum's
lower end at 10 Rue de la Liberté, tel. [phone]).
La Table d'L has mod decor and is warmly run by eager-to-please waitress Ellie and
chef Jay. Relatively new to Arles, Jay worked in a restaurant in New York for 17 years. The
selection is limited but the quality is not. Jay loves her lamb and fish, and so will you (€8-21
starters, €24-34 plats, reasonably priced wine list, closed Mon, 1 bis Rue Réattu, tel. 04 90
96 32 53).
LaPizzadesThermes isawelcomingeaterywithcomfortable indoorandoutdoorseat-
ing a few blocks north of Place du Forum. It serves good pizza and pasta for €9-12 (daily, 6
Rue du Sauvage, tel. [phone]).
Café de la Major is the place to go to recharge with some serious coffee or tea (closed
Sun, 7 bis Rue Réattu, tel. [phone]).
Near the Roman Arena
(See “Arles Hotels & Restaurants” map, here . )
For about the same price as on Place du Forum, you can enjoy regional cuisine with a point-
blank view of the arena. Because they change regularly, the handful of (mostly) outdoor eat-
eries that overlook the arena are pretty indistinguishable.
Le Grillon, with the best view above the arena, offers friendly service (say bonjour to
smiling Nordine) and good-enough salads (the camarguaise is a riot of color), pizza and
tasty tartines for €10 (including small salad), and plats du jour for €10-14 (closed all day
Wed and Sun nights, at the top of the arena on Rond-point des Arènes, tel. [phone]).
Le Criquet is a sweet little place serving Provençal classics with joy at good prices two
blocks above the arena. If you're really hungry, try the €25 bourride —a creamy fish soup
thickened with aioli and garlic and stuffed with mussels, clams, calamari, and more (good
€19-26 three-course menus, indoor and outdoor dining, 21 Rue Porte de Laure, tel. 04 90 96
80 51).
For details on the next two places, see their listings under “Sleeping in Arles,” earlier:
Hôtel le Calendal serves lunch in its lovely courtyard (€12-18, daily 12:00-15:00) or deli-
cious little sandwiches for €2.50 each at its small café. Hôtel Voltaire, well-situated on a
pleasing square, serves simple three-course lunches and dinners at honest prices to a loyal