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brown tones, and a small terrace in front. You'll pay a bit more for the upgraded rooms, but
it's money well spent (most Db-€66, bigger Db-€75, Tb-€77, Qb-€92, buffet breakfast-€8,
air-con,noelevator,InternetaccessandWi-Fi,privategarage-€8,15RuedesSuisses,tel.04
90 96 15 39, fax 04 90 49 73 16, www.hotel-muette.com , hotel.muette@wanadoo.fr ).
$$ Hôtel Acacias**, just off Place Lamartine and inside the old city walls, is a modern
hotel with less personality. The pretty pastel rooms are on the small side, but they're reason-
ablypriced(standardSb-€55,Db-€65-74,extrabed-€15,breakfast-€6,air-con,elevator,Wi-
Fi, 2 Rue de la Cavalerie, tel. 04 90 96 37 88, fax 04 90 96 32 51, www.hotel-acacias.com ,
contact@hotel-acacias.com ).
$ Hôtel Régence**, a top budget deal, has a riverfront location, immaculate and com-
fortable Provençal rooms, safe parking, and easy access to the train station (Db-€55-70,
Tb-€70-85, Qb-€80-100, choose river view or quieter courtyard rooms, most rooms have
showers, good buffet breakfast-€7, air-con, no elevator but only two floors, Internet access
and Wi-Fi, garage-€6; from Place Lamartine, turn right immediately after passing between
towers to reach 5 Rue Marius Jouveau; tel. 04 90 96 39 85, fax 04 90 96 67 64, www.hotel-
regence.com , contact@hotel-regence.com ). The gentle Nouvions speak some English.
$ Hôtel Voltaire* rents 12 small, spartan rooms with ceiling fans and nifty balconies
overlooking a fun square. A block below the arena, it's good for starving artists who aren't
particular about cleanliness. Smiling owner “Mr.” Ferran (fur-ran) loves the States, and
hopes you'll add to his postcard collection (D-€30, Ds-€35, Db-€40, 1 Place Voltaire, tel. 04
90964918,fax0490964549, levoltaire13@aol.com ) .Theyalsoserveagood-valuelunch
and dinner in their recommended restaurant.
$LaMaisonduPelerin offersspotlessdormroomswiththreetosixbedsperroom.It's
a great value, just above the Roman Arena and Classical Theater, with a shared kitchen and
homey living area. Book in advance by phone or email and get the door code. You can also
check in next door at the recommended Hôtel le Calendal (they own the place). Sheets are
included (€25/person, shared bath, must pay in advance, Wi-Fi, 26 Place Pomme, mobile 06
99 71 11 89, www.arles-pelerins.fr ) .
Eating in Arles
YoucandinewellinArlesonamodestbudget—infact,it'shardtoblowalotondinnerhere
(most of my listings have menus for under €25). The bad news is that restaurants change
regularly, so double-check my suggestions. Before dinner, go local on Place du Forum and
enjoy a pastis . This anise-based apéritif is served straight in a glass with ice, plus a carafe of
water—dilute to taste. Sunday is a quiet night for restaurants, though most eateries on Place
du Forum are open.
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