Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
compensateforArles'slopedowntotheriver.Thetwocolumnsareallthatsurvivefromthe
upper story of the entry to the Forum. Steps leading to the entrance are buried—the Roman
street level was about 20 feet below you (you can get a glimpse of it by peeking through the
street-level openings under the Hôtel d'Arlatan, two blocks below Place du Forum on Rue
du Sauvage). To see the underground arches, visit the Cryptoporticos (see next page).
The statue on the square is of
Frédéric Mistral
(1830-1914). This popular poet, who
wrote in the local dialect rather than in French, was a champion of Provençal culture. After
receiving the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1904, Mistral used his prize money to preserve
anddisplaythefolkidentity ofProvence.Hefoundedtheregionalfolkmuseum(theArlaten
Folk Museum, described later) at a time when France was rapidly centralizing. (The local
mistral wind—literally “master”—has nothing to do with his name.)
The
bright-yellow café
—called Café la Nuit—was the subject of one of Vincent van
Gogh's most famous works in Arles. Although his painting showed the café in a brilliant
yellow from the glow of gas lamps, the facade was bare limestone, just like the other cafés
on this square. The café's current owners have painted it to match Van Gogh's version...and
to cash in on the Vincent-crazed hordes who pay too much to eat or drink here.
• Facing Café la Nuit, walk right one block (past Grand Hôtel Nord Pinus) and turn left.
WalkthroughtheHôteldeVille'svaultedentry(ortakethenextrightifit'sclosed),andpop
out onto the big...
Republic Square (Place de la République)
This square used to be called “Place Royale”...until the French Revolution. The obelisk
was the former centerpiece of Arles' Roman Circus. The lions at its base are the symbol
of the city, whose slogan is (roughly) “the gentle lion.” Find a seat and watch the peas-
ants—pilgrims, locals, and street musicians. There's nothing new about this scene.
• Return to the Hôtel de Ville (where you came in) and look for the entrance to...
Cryptoporticos (Cryptoportiques)
This dark, drippy underworld of Roman arches was constructed to support Forum Square.
Twothousand years ago, most ofthis gallery ofarches was at orabove street level—modern
Arles has buried about 20 feet of its history over the millennia. Pick up the minimalist Eng-
lish flier and read it before you descend into the dark.
Cost and Hours:
€3.50, daily May-Sept 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-19:00, March-April and
Oct 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00.
• Just outside the Hôtel de Ville, back in Place de la République, find...
