Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
$$ Autour de Midi et Minuit
is a classic French bistro sitting on top of a jazz cellar
closed Mon, 11 Rue Lepic, Mo: Blanche or Abbesses, tel. 01 55 79 16 48).
$ Le Chinon Brasserie
offers good seating inside and out and is the best bet for café/
wine bar ambience and food (daily, 49 Rue des Abbesses, tel. 01 42 62 07 17).
$ Smooth in the City
provides a much-needed break from rich French fare. For €8.50
you get a fresh fruit smoothie, a healthy salad or veggie-packed sandwich, and a homemade
dessert. Order it to go for your walk up the hill, or sit at one of their three outdoor tables
(daily 10:00-19:00, 11 Rue des Abbesses, tel. 01 83 56 56 55).
$ La Fourmi
sits at the bottom of the hill. Open all day, they offer the cheapest coffee
and croissants in Montmartre, and simple, affordable lunches (€8-12). In the evening, the
place is taken over by hilltop hipsters who come for the inexpensive beer and generous
cheese plates (daily, 74 Rue des Martyrs, Mo: Anvers or Pigalle, tel. 01 42 64 70 35).
The following companies all offer dinner cruises (reservations required). Bateaux-Mouches
and Bateaux Parisiens have the best reputations and the highest prices. They offer mul-
ticourse meals and music in aircraft-carrier-size dining rooms with glass tops and good
views. For both, proper dress is required—no denim, shorts, or sport shoes; Bateaux-
Mouches requires a jacket and tie for men. The main difference between these companies
is the music: Bateaux-Mouches offers violin and piano to entertain your romantic evening,
whereas Bateaux Parisiens boasts a lively atmosphere with a singer, band, and dance floor.
Bateaux-Mouches,
started in 1949, is hands-down the most famous. You can't miss its
sparkling port on the north side of the river at Pont de l'Alma. The boats usually board
19:30-20:15, depart at 20:30, and return at 22:45 (€100-155/person, RER: Pont de l'Alma,
tel. 01 42 25 96 10,
www.bateaux-mouches.fr
).
Bateaux Parisiens
leaves from Port de la Bourdonnais, just east of the bridge under the
Eiffel Tower. Begin boarding at 19:45, leave at 20:30, and return at 23:00 (€66-165/per-
son, price depends on departure time, view seating, and
menu
option; tel. 01 76 64 14 45,
www.bateauxparisiens.com
). The middle level is best. Pay the few extra euros to get seats
next to the windows—it's more romantic and private, with sensational views.
Le Capitaine Fracasse
offers the budget option (€50/person, €80 with wine or cham-
pagne; reserve ahead—easy online—or get there early to secure a table; boarding times vary
by season and day of week, walk down stairs in the middle of Bir-Hakeim bridge near the
Eiffel Tower to Iles aux Cygne, Mo: Bir-Hakeim or RER: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, tel.
01 46 21 48 15,
www.croisiere-paris.com
)
.
