FRANCE - Best of Europe 2014 - page 393

Near Sacré-Cœur
(See “Hotels & Restaurants in Montmartre” map, here . )
The steps in front of Sacré-Cœur are perfect for a picnic with a view, though the spot comes
with lots of company. For a quieter setting, consider the park directly behind the church.
Along the touristy main drag (near Place du Tertre and just off it), several fun piano bars
servemediocrecrêpesbutoffergreatpeople-watching.Theoptionsbecomelesstouristyand
far more tasty as you get away from the top of the hill (skip any place on Place du Tertre).
The Anvers Métro stop works well if you're visiting Sacré-Cœur. The Abbesses Métro stop
will land you in the heart of the residential Montmartre neighborhood.
$$$ Moulin de la Galette lets you dine with Renoir under the historic windmill in a
comfortablesettingwithgoodprices.Findtheoldphotosscatteredabouttheplace(€23two-
courseand€29three-course menus atlunchonly;€15startersand€28 plats fordinner,daily,
83 Rue Lepic, Mo: Abbesses, tel. [phone]).
$$ Restaurant Chez Plumeau, just off jam-packed Place du Tertre, is touristy yet mod-
eratelypriced,withformalservicebutgreatseatingonatiny,characteristicsquare(elaborate
€17 salads, €18-22 plats, closed Tue Oct-April and Wed year-round, 4 Place du Calvaire,
Mo: Abbesses, tel. [phone]).
$ L'Eté en Pente Douce is a good Montmartre choice, hiding under the generous
branches of street trees. Just downhill from the crowds on a classic neighborhood corner, it
features cheery indoor and outdoor seating, €10 plats du jour and salads, vegetarian options,
andgoodwines(daily,manystepsbelowSacré-Cœurtotheleftasyouleave,downthestairs
below the WC, 23 Rue Muller, Mo: Anvers, tel. [phone]).
Near Place des Abbesses
(See “Hotels & Restaurants in Montmartre” map, here . )
At the bottom of Montmartre, residents pile into a long lineup of brasseries and cafés near
Place des Abbesses, especially along Rue des Abbesses and Rue des Martyrs. The food is
average; the atmosphere is anything but. Come here for a lively, tourist-free scene. Rue des
Abbesses is perfect for a picnic-gathering stroll with cheese shops, delis, wine stores, and
bakeries. In fact, the baker at Au Levain d'Antan won the award for the best baguette in
Paris in 2011 (Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00, closed Sat-Sun, 6 Rue des Abbesses). Unless another
Métro stop is listed, use the Abbesses stop.
$$ Le Miroir 's kitchen is run by a young and enthusiastic chef cooking up seasonal
French fare. Go for high-quality ingredients served to a locals-only crowd. If you enjoyed
the wine you had with your meal, cross the street to their wine shop and pick up a bottle
to go (€26-33 two or three-course menus, Tue-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch only, closed
Mon, 94 Rue des Martyrs, tel. [phone]).