FRANCE - Best of Europe 2014 - page 391

$$ Café de l'Odéon offers a great chance to savor light meals with a classy crowd on
a peaceful and elegant square in front of a venerable theater. Though limited, the menu is
accessible and decently priced, and you'll feel like a winner eating so well and so reason-
ably in such a Parisian setting. From May to October, the café is outdoors-only and serves
lunchanddinner—orjustgofordrinks(good€14salads,€17 plats suchassalmonand steak
tartare ;May-Octdaily12:00-23:00—weatherpermitting,noreservations,Placedel'Odéon,
tel.[phone]).Inthewinter(Nov-April)theyservelunchonlyinsidethepalatialtheat-
er lobby.
$RestaurantPolidor, abare-bonesneighborhoodfixturesincethe19thcentury,ismuch
loved for its unpretentious quality cooking, fun old-Paris atmosphere, and fair value. Step-
ping inside, you know this is a winner—noisy, happy diners sit tightly at shared tables as
waiterschopandservefreshbread.Theselectionfeaturesclassicbourgeois plats fromevery
corner of France; their menu fraîcheur is designed for lighter summer eating (€12-17 plats ,
€25-35three-course menus ,daily 12:00-14:30&19:00-23:00,cashonly,noreservations, 41
Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, tel. [phone]).
Between the Panthéon and the Cluny Museum
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here . )
To reach these restaurants, use the Cluny-La Sorbonne Métro stop or the Luxembourg RER
stop.
$$ At Les Papilles you just eat what's offered...and you won't complain. It's a foodie's
dreamcometrue—one menu ,nochoices,andnoregrets.Chooseyourwinefromtheshelfor
ask for advice from the burly rugby-playing owner, then relax and let the food arrive. Book
this place ahead (€34 menu , €16 daily marmite du marché —a.k.a. market stew, closed Sun-
Mon, 30 Rue Gay Lussac, tel. [phone]).
$$ Le Vin Qui Danse is a warm little place serving a good selection of tasty dishes and
well-matched wines to appreciative clients (€27 two-course menu , add €15 for three wines
selected to complement your meal, daily, 4 Rue des Fossés St. Jacques, tel. [phone]).
$ On Rue Soufflot with Panthéon Views: Facing each other are two cafés— Le Soufflot
and LeComptoirduPanthéon —thatarewell-positionedforafternoonsunandsoftevening
light. A block in front of the Panthéon, they deliver dynamite views of the inspiring dome.
Both serve classic café food all day until late and are great for a pensive drink or a light
meal—simply choose the one that appeals.
$ Place de la Sorbonne: This appealing little square surrounds a gurgling fountain and
faces Sorbonne University, just a block from the Cluny Museum. It offers several oppor-
tunities for a good outdoor lunch or a pleasant dining experience. At amiable Carole's tiny
Baker's Dozen, you'll pay take-away prices for light fare you can sit down to eat (€5 salads
and sandwiches, Mon-Sat until 15:30, closed Sun, tel. [phone]). Café de l'Ecritoire