FRANCE - Best of Europe 2014 - page 383

To reach these eateries, use the Hôtel de Ville Métro stop.
$$ Au Bourguignon du Marais is a handsome wine bar/bistro for Burgundy lovers,
where excellent wines (Burgundian only, available by the glass) blend with a good selection
of well-designed dishes and efficient service. The œufs en meurette are mouthwatering, and
the bœufbourguignon couldfeedtwo(€10-14starters,€20-26 plats ,closedSun-Mon,pleas-
ing indoor and outdoor seating, 52 Rue François Miron, tel. [phone]).
$L'Ebouillanté isabreezycrêperie-café,romanticallysituatedneartheriveronabroad,
cobbled pedestrian lane behind a church. With great outdoor seating and an artsy, cozy in-
terior, it's perfect for an inexpensive and relaxing tea, snack, or lunch—or for dinner on a
warm evening. Their Brick, a Tunisian-inspired dish that looks like a stuffed omelet, has
several filling options and comes with a small salad (€15); it left me stuffed ( plats and big
salads-€13, daily 12:00-21:30 except closed Mon Nov-March, a block off the river at 6 Rue
des Barres, tel. [phone]).
$ Pizza Sant'Antonio is bustling and cheap, serving up €11 pizzas and salads on a fun
Marais square (daily, barely off Rue de Rivoli at 1 Rue de la Verrerie, tel. [phone]).
$ BHV Department Store 's fifth-floor cafeteria provides nice views, good prices, and
no-brainer, point-and-shoot cafeteria cuisine (Mon-Sat 11:30-18:00, closed Sun, at intersec-
tion of Rue du Temple and Rue de la Verrerie, one block from Hôtel de Ville).
Picnicking in the Marais
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here .)
PicnicatpeacefulPlacedesVosges(closesatdusk)oronthe quai onIleSt.Louis(described
later). Stretch your euros at the basement supermarket of the Monoprix department store
(closed Sun, near Place des Vosges on Rue St. Antoine). You'll find small groceries open
until 23:00 at 48 Rue St. Antoine and on Ile St. Louis.
Nightlife in the Marais
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here .)
Trendy cafés and bars—popular with gay men—cluster on Rue des Archives and Rue Ste.
CroixdelaBretonnerie(closingatabout2:00inthemorning).There'salsoalineofbarsand
cafés providing front-row seats for the buff parade on Rue Vieille du Temple, a block north
of Rue de Rivoli (the horseshoe-shaped Au Petit Fer à Cheval bar-restaurant and the atmo-
spheric La Belle Hortense bookstore/wine bar are the focal points of the action). Nearby,
Rue des Rosiers bustles with youthful energy, but there are no cafés to observe from. La
Perla dishes up inexpensive Tex-Mex and is stuffed with Parisian yuppies in search of the
perfect margarita (26 Rue François Miron, tel. [phone]).