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$$$BrasserieBofinger, aninstitutionforoveracentury,isfamousforfishandtradition-
al cuisine with Alsatian flair. You'll eat in a sprawling interior, surrounded by brisk, black-
and-white-attired waiters. It's a high-energy feast for all the senses. Downstairs rooms are
elaborately decorated and reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties, while upstairs rooms have
traditional Alsatian decor. Eating under the grand 1919 coupole is a memorable treat (as is
using the “historic” 1919 WC downstairs). Check out the boys shucking and stacking sea-
food platters out front before you enter. Their €29 two-course and €34 three-course menus,
while not top cuisine, are a good value. If you've always wanted one of those picturesque
seafood platters, this is a good place—you can take the standard platter or create one à la
carte (open daily for lunch and for dinner, fun kids' menu, reasonably priced wines, 5 Rue
de la Bastille, don't be confused by the lesser “Petite” Bofinger across the street, tel. 01 42
72 87 82).
$$ Au Temps des Cerises is a cozy place serving wines by the glass and simple meals
with a smile. The woody 1950s atmosphere has tight seating and wads of character. Come
for a glass of wine and move on, or better yet, stay for a tasty dinner (€9 starters, €18 plats ,
cheap wine, daily, at Rue du Petit Musc and Rue de la Cerisaie, tel. 01 42 72 08 63).
In the Heart of the Marais
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here .)
These are closest to the St. Paul Métro stop.
$$ Robert et Louise (now run by Pascal et François) crams tables into a tiny, rustic-
as-it-gets interior, warmed by a fireplace grill. The food is red-meat good, well-priced, and
popular with tourists (€7 starters, €18 plats , €6 desserts, closed Mon, 64 Rue du Vieille du
Temple, tel. 01 42 78 55 89).
$ Breizh (Brittany) Café is worth the walk. It's a simple Breton joint serving organic
crêpes and small rolls made for dipping in rich sauces and salted butter. The crêpes are the
best in Paris and run the gamut from traditional andouille (pork sausage) to Asian fusion
(buckwheat crêpe topped with seaweed butter). They also serve oysters, have a fantastic list
ofsweetcrêpes,andtalkaboutciderlikeasommelierwouldtalkaboutwine.Tryasparkling
cider, a Breton cola, or my favorite— lait ribot , a buttermilk-like drink (€7-12 dinner crêpes
and plats ,servesnonstopfrom12:00tolate,closedMon-Tue,109RueduVieilleduTemple,
tel. 01 42 72 13 77).
$ Le Bistrot des Compères has a privileged location on a quiet corner in the thick of
the Marais; there's a warm and welcoming feel whether you sit inside or out. The cuisine is
traditional with creative twists, the staff is relaxed, and the prices are very fair (€7 starters,
€15 plats , €7 desserts, closed Sun-Mon, 16 Rue Charlemagne, tel. 01 42 72 14 16).
$ On Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: Thissmall, romantic square,justoffRueSt.An-
toine, is an international food festival cloaked in extremely Parisian, leafy-square ambience.
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