Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Nightlife in Rue Cler
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here . )
This sleepy neighborhood was not made for night owls, but there are a few notable excep-
tions. The focal point of before- and after-dinner posing occurs along the broad sidewalk
at the intersection of Avenues de la Motte-Picquet and Tourville (Mo: Ecole Militaire). Le
Tourville and CafédesOfficiers gatheraseaofoutward-facingseatsfortheimportantbusi-
ness of people-watching—and fashion-model recruiting.
La Terrasse du 7ème, across the avenue, has a less-pretentious clientele (see listing,
earlier). Nearby, Café du Marché (listed earlier) attracts a Franco-American crowd until at
least midnight, as does the younger Café Roussillon (good French pub atmosphere, corner
of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler). O'Brien's Pub is a relaxed Parisian rendition of an Irish
pub, full of Anglophones (77 Rue St. Dominique, Mo: La Tour Maubourg).
In the Marais Neighborhood
The trendy Marais is filled with diners enjoying good food in colorful and atmospheric eat-
eries. The scene is competitive and changes all the time. I've listed an assortment of eater-
ies—all handy to recommended hotels—that offer good food at decent prices, plus a mem-
orable experience.
On Romantic Place des Vosges
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here .)
This square offers Old World Marais elegance, a handful of eateries, and an ideal picnic site
until dusk, when the park closes (use Bastille or St. Paul Métro stops). Strolling around the
arcade after dark is more important than dining here—fanciful art galleries alternate with
restaurants and cafés. Choose a restaurant that best fits your mood and budget; most have
arcade seating and provide big space heaters to make outdoor dining during colder months
anoption.AlsoconsideradrinkordessertonthesquareatCaféHugoorCaretteaftereating
elsewhere.
$$$ Ma Bourgogne is a vintage eatery where you'll sit under warm arcades in a whirl-
poolofFrenchness, asbow-tied andblack-aproned waiters serve youtraditional French spe-
cialties: blood-red steak (try the brochette de bœuf ), piles of fries, escargot, and good red
wine. Monsieur Cougoureux (koo-goo-ruh) has commanded this ship since de Gaulle was
sniveling at Americans. He offers anyone with this topic a free amuse-bouche (“amusement
for your mouth”) of his homemade steak tartare —but you may need to remind him (show
him my picture in this topic). This is your chance to try this “raw spiced hamburger” delic-
acy without dedicating an entire meal to it (€40 menu , daily, cash only, at northwest corner
at #19, tel. 01 42 78 44 64).
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