FRANCE - Best of Europe 2014 - page 361

busy Boulevard de Port-Royal at #8, Mo: Les Gobelins, tel. [phone], fax [phone]
67, www.hotelportroyal.fr , [e-mail] ) .
$ Hôtel de L'Espérance** is simply a terrific two-star value. It's quiet and cushy,
with soft rooms, canopy beds, and nice public spaces (Sb-€85, Db-€85-100, Tb-€120,
15 Rue Pascal, Mo: Censier Daubenton, tel. [phone], fax [phone],
www.hoteldelesperance.fr , [e-mail] ) .
$ Young & Happy Hostel is easygoing, well-run, and English-speaking, with Internet
access, kitchen facilities, and acceptable hostel conditions. It sits dead-center in the Rue
Mouffetard action...which can be good or bad (all rates per person: bunk in 4- to 10-bed
co-ed dorm-€24-32, in 3- to 5-bed female-only dorm-€28, in double room-€35, includes
breakfast,sheetdeposit-€5,towel-€1,creditcardsaccepted, noair-con,nolockersbutsafety
box at reception, pay Wi-Fi, 11:00-16:00 lockout but reception stays open, no curfew,
80 Rue Mouffetard, Mo: Place Monge, tel. [phone], fax [phone],
www.youngandhappy.fr , [e-mail] , friendly Alex at the helm).
Montmartre
Montmartre is surprisingly quiet once you get away from the touristy top of the hill. Ditch
theflowofvisitorsstreaming fromPlaced'AnverstoSacré-CœurBasilica, andyou'llfinda
charming neighborhood happily living in the shadow of the hulking monument. Montmartre
isamixofyoungfamilies,artists,andsprightlyseniorcitizens,andisbecomingincreasingly
popularwiththe bobo crowd( bourgeoisbohemian ,Frenchfor“hipster”).Travelerswillfind
good deals on hotel rooms and a lively atmosphere, especially in the evenings when the ter-
races are full and tiny bars spill crowds onto the narrow streets. There's a TI at the Anvers
Métro stop (daily 10:00-18:00, 72 Boulevard Rochechouart).
Most of the action is centered around Rue des Abbesses, starting at Place des Abbesses,
andstretchingseveralblockstoRueLepic.RueLepicisalsolively,buttheloweryougothe
seedier it gets: Scammers and shady characters swarm the base of the hill after hours (along
Boulevard Clichy and Boulevard Rochechouart, where you'll find what's left of Paris' red
light district). For fun nightlife, explore the narrow streets uphill from Rue des Abbesses
around Rue Durantin and Rue des Trois Frères. For restaurant suggestions, see here .
Métro and Bus Connections: Métro line 12 is the handiest (use the Abbesses stop).
Line 2 is also close, using the Blanche, Pigalle, or Anvers stops, but requires a four-block
uphill walk to reach my recommended hotels. There's only one bus line on the hill—the
Montmartrobus electric bus—which connects Pigalle, Abbesses, and Place du Tertre in 10
minutes (4/hour). At the base of the hill you can catch bus #67 (next to the Pigalle Métro
station) and ride straight to the Louvre, along the Seine, across Ile St. Louis, and eventually
to the Jardin des Plantes.