Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
can't enter when they're changing out the stage). Note the box seats next to the stage—the
most expensive in the house, with an obstructed view of the stage...but just right if you're
here only to be seen.
TheelitismofthisplacepromptedformerPresidentFrançoisMitterrandtohaveanopera
house built for the people in the 1980s, situated symbolically on Place de la Bastille, where
the French Revolution started in 1789. This left the Opéra Garnier home only to ballet and
occasional concerts. The library/museum will interest opera buffs, but anyone will enjoy the
second-floor grand foyer and Salon du Glacier, iced with decor typical of 1900.
Nearby: The Fragonard Perfume Museum (described next) is on the left side of the
Opéra, and the venerable Galeries Lafayette department store (marvelous views from roof
terrace) is just behind. Across the street, the illustrious Café de la Paix has been a meeting
spot for the local glitterati for generations. If you can afford the coffee, this spot offers a de-
lightful break.
Fragonard Perfume Museum
Near Opéra Garnier, this perfume shop masquerades as a museum. Housed in a beautiful
19th-centurymansion,it'sthebest-smellingmuseuminParis—andyou'lllearnalittleabout
how perfume is made, too (ask for the English handout).
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 9:00-17:00, 9 Rue Scribe, Mo: Opéra,
RER: Auber, tel. 01 47 42 04 56, www.fragonard.com .
▲▲▲ Jacquemart-André Museum (Musée Jacquemart-André)
This thoroughly enjoyable museum (with an elegant café) showcases the lavish home of a
wealthy,art-loving,19th-centuryParisiancouple.Afterwanderingthegrandboulevards,get
inside for an intimate look at the lifestyles of the Parisian rich and fabulous. Edouard André
andhiswifeNélieJacquemart—whohadnochildren—spenttheirlivesandfortunesdesign-
ing, building, and then decorating this sumptuous mansion. What makes the visit so reward-
ing is the excellent audioguide tour (in English, included with admission—plan on spending
an hour with the audioguide). The place is strewn with paintings by Rembrandt, Botticelli,
Uccello, Mantegna, Bellini, Boucher, and Fragonard—enough to make a painting gallery
famous.
Cost and Hours: €11, includes audioguide, not covered by Museum Pass; daily
10:00-18:00, Mon and Sat until 21:00 during special exhibits; can avoid lines by purchasing
tickets online (€2 fee) and printing receipt, 158 Boulevard Haussmann, Mo: Miromesnil or
St. Philippe-du-Roule, bus #80 makes a convenient connection to Ecole Militaire; tel. 01 45
62 11 59, www.museejacquemart-andre.com .
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