Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
St. Germain-des-Prés
Achurchwasfirstbuiltonthissitein
A.D.
558.Thechurchyouseetodaywasconstructedin
1163andisall that'sleft ofaoncesprawling andinfluential monastery.Thecolorful interior
reminds us that medieval churches were originally painted in bright colors. The surrounding
area hops at night with venerable cafés, fire-eaters, mimes, and scads of artists.
Cost and Hours:
Free, daily 8:00-20:00, Mo: St. Germain-des-Prés.
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St. Sulpice Church
Since it was featured in
The Da Vinci Code,
this grand church has become a trendy stop for
the topic's many fans. But the real reason to visit is to see and hear its intimately accessible
organ. For pipe-organ enthusiasts, this is one of Europe's great musical treats. The Grand
Orgue at St. Sulpice Church has a rich history, with a succession of 12 world-class organ-
ists—including Charles-Marie Widor and Marcel Dupré—that goes back 300 years. Widor
started the tradition of opening the loft to visitors after the Sunday morning service. Daniel
Roth (or his understudy) continues to welcome guests in three languages while playing five
keyboards.
Cost and Hours:
Free, church open daily 7:30-19:30, Mo: St. Sulpice or Mabillon. See
www.stsulpice.com
for special concerts.
Sunday Organ Visits:
The 10:30-11:30 Sunday Mass (come appropriately dressed) is
followed by a high-powered 25-minute recital. Then, at noon, the small, unmarked door is
opened (left of entry as you face the rear). Visitors scamper like 16th notes up spiral stairs,
past the 19th-century StairMasters that five men once pumped to fill the bellows, into a
world of 7,000 pipes. You can see the organ and visit with Daniel (or his substitute, who
mightnotspeakEnglish).Spaceistight—only15peopleareallowedinatatime,andonlya
fewcangatheraroundtheorganistatonce—youneedtobequicktoallowothersachanceto
meethim.You'lllikelyhaveabout20minutestokillbeforewatchingthemasterplayduring
the next Mass (church views are great, and there's a small lounge to wait in); you can leave
at any time. If you're late or rushed, show up around 12:30 and wait at the little door (last
entry is at 13:00). As someone leaves, you can slip in, climb up, and catch the rest of the
performance.
Nearby:
Tempting boutiques surround the church, and Luxembourg Garden is nearby.
This museum for Eugène Delacroix (1798-1863) was once his home and studio. A friend of
bohemian artistic greats—including George Sand and Frédéric Chopin—Delacroix is most
famous for the flag-waving painting
Liberty Leading the People,
which is displayed at the
Louvre, not here.
