AUSTRIA - Best of Europe 2014 - page 176

choose a number; takeaway only, steady and sturdy local crowd, daily 11:00-19:00, hours
vary with demand, hiding down the tunnel at Getreidegasse 33 across from Eisgrotte).
Picnics: Picnickers will appreciate the well-stocked Billa supermarket at Griesgasse
19a, just across the street from the recommended Fisch Krieg Restaurant (Mon-Fri
7:15-19:30, Sat 7:15-18:00, closed Sun). The bustling morning produce market (Mon-Sat,
closed Sun) on Universitätsplatz, behind Mozart's Birthplace, is fun, but expensive.
Away from the Center
(See “Salzburg Restaurants” map, here . )
Augustiner Bräustübl, a huge 1,000-seat beer garden within a monk-run brewery in the
Kloster Mülln, is rustic and raw. On busy nights, it's like a Munich beer hall with no music
but the volume turned up. When it's cool outside, you'll enjoy a historic setting inside beer-
sloshed and smoke-stained halls. On balmy evenings, it's like a Renoir painting—but with
beer breath—under chestnut trees. Local students mix with tourists eating hearty slabs of
schnitzel with their fingers or cold meals from the self-serve picnic counter, while children
frolic on the playground kegs. For your beer: Pick up a half-liter or full-liter mug, pay the
lady ( schank means self-serve price, bedienung is the price with waiter service), wash your
mug, give Mr. Keg your receipt and empty mug, and you will be made happy. Waiters only
bring beer; they don't bring food—instead, go up the stairs, survey the hallway of deli coun-
ters, and assemble your own meal (or, as long as you buy a drink, you can bring in a picnic).
Classic pretzels from the bakery and spiraled, salty radishes make great beer even better.
For dessert—after a visit to the strudel kiosk—enjoy the incomparable floodlit view of old
Salzburg from the nearby Müllnersteg pedestrian bridge and a riverside stroll home (open
daily 15:00-23:00, Augustinergasse 4, tel. [phone]).
Getting There: It's about a 15-minute walk along the river (with the river on your right)
fromtheStaatsbrückebridge.AfterpassingtheMüllnerstegpedestrianbridge,justafterCafé
amKai,followthestairsuptoabusystreet,andcrossit.Fromhere,eithercontinueupmore
stairs into the trees and around the small church (for a scenic approach to the monastery),
or stick to the sidewalk as it curves around to Augustinergasse. Either way, your goal is the
huge yellow building. Don't be fooled by second-rate gardens serving the same beer nearby.
North of the River, near Recommended Linzergasse Hotels
(See “Salzburg Restaurants” map, here . )
Spicy Spices is a trippy vegetarian-Indian restaurant where Suresh Syal (a.k.a. “Mr. Spicy”)
serves tasty curry and rice, samosas, organic salads, vegan soups, and fresh juices. It's a
namaste kind of place, where everything's proudly organic (€6.50 specials served all day,