Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
there could be a peaceful alternative to the religious strife that was racking Europe at the
time. Salzburg's archbishop was technically the top papal official north of the Alps, but the
city managed to steer clear of the war. With its rich salt production, it had enough money
to stay out of the conflict and carefully maintain its independence from the warring sides,
earning it the nickname “Fortified Island of Peace.”
Domplatz, the square in front of the cathedral, is surrounded by the prince archbishop's
secular administration buildings. The
statue of Mary
(from 1771) is looking away from the
church, welcoming visitors. If you stand in the rear of the square, immediately under the
middle arch, you'll see that she's positioned to be crowned by the two angels on the church
facade.
Thedatesonthecathedral'sirongatesrefertomilestones inthechurch'shistory:In774,
the previous church (long since destroyed) was founded by St. Virgil, to be replaced in 1628
by the church you see today. In 1959, a partial reconstruction was completed, made neces-
sary by a WWII bomb that had blown through the dome.
Cost and Hours:
Free, but donation prominently requested; May-Sept Mon-Sat
9:00-19:00, Sun 13:00-19:00; March-April, Oct, and Dec closes at 18:00; Jan-Feb and Nov
closes at 17:00;
www.salzburger-dom.at
.
Visiting the Cathedral:
Enter the cathedral as if part of a festival procession—drawn
towardtheresurrectedChristbythebrightlylitareaunderthedome,andcheeredonbyceil-
ing paintings of the Passion.
Built in just 14 years (1614-1628), the church boasts harmonious architecture. When
Pope John Paul II visited in 1998, some 5,000 people filled the cathedral (330 feet long and
230feet tall). The baptismal font (dark bronze, left ofthe entry) is from the previous cathed-
ral(basinfromabout1320,althoughthelidismodern).Mozartwasbaptizedhere(Amadeus
means “beloved by God”). Concert and Mass schedules are posted at the entrance; the
SundayMassat10:00isfamousforitsmusic(usuallychoral;moreinfoat
www.kirchen.net/
dommusik
).
The
paintings
liningthenave,showingeventsleadinguptoChrist'sdeath,arerelatively
dark. But the Old Testament themes that foreshadow Jesus' resurrection, and the Resurrec-
tionscenepaintedatthealtar,arewell-lit.Thechurchhasneverhadstainedglass—justclear
windows to let light power the message.
The stucco, by a Milanese artist, is exceptional. Sit under the
dome
—surrounded by the
tombs of 10 archbishops from the 17th century—and imagine all four organs playing, each
balcony filled with musicians...glorious surround-sound. Mozart, who was the organist here
for two years, would advise you that the acoustics are best in pews immediately under the
dome. Study the symbolism of the decor all around you—intellectual, complex, and cohes-
ive. Think of the altar in Baroque terms, as the center of a stage, with sunrays as spotlights
in this dramatic and sacred theater.
