Travel Reference
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a fine Vienna park setting (July-Aug daily from 11:00 until late, in front of City Hall on the
Ringstrasse, U-2: Rathaus).
Just West of the Ring
(See “Restaurants in Central Vienna” map, here .)
Justizcafe, thecafeteria servingAustria'sSupremeCourtofJustice,offersafineview,great
prices, and a memorable lunchtime experience—even if the food is somewhat bland. Enter
the Palace of Justice through its grand front door, pass through tight security (no guns), say
“wow” to the Historicist architecture in the courtyard, and ride the elevator to the rooftop.
You can sit behind the windows inside or dine outside on the roof, enjoying one of the best
viewsofViennawhilesurroundedbylegalbeagles—goearlyorlatetomissthecrush(€8-12
main dishes, Mon-Fri 11:00-14:30, closed Sat-Sun, Schmerlingplatz 10, U-2 or U-3: Volk-
stheater/Museumsplatz, mobile 0676-755-6100).
Spittelberg Quarter
(See “Hotels & Restaurants Outside the Ring” map, here . )
Spittelberg has a rare-in-Vienna Prague-like ambiance. Most of the city's architecture dates
from1880to1910,whenthepopulationexploded.ButtheSpittelbergquarterdatesfrombe-
fore 1880. This charming cobbled grid of traffic-free lanes and Biedermeier apartments has
becomeafavoriteneighborhoodforViennesewantingalittlediningcharmbetweentheMu-
seumsQuartier and Mariahilfer Strasse (handy to many recommended hotels; take Stiftgasse
from Mariahilfer Strasse, or wander over here after you close down the Kunsthistorisches
Museum; U-2 or U-3: Volkstheater/Museumsplatz). Tables tumble down sidewalks and into
breezy courtyards filled with appreciative natives enjoying dinner or a relaxing drink. It's
only worth the trip on a balmy summer evening, as it's dead in bad weather. Stroll Spittel-
berggasse, Schrankgasse, and Gutenberggasse, then pick your favorite. Don't miss the vine-
strewn wine garden at Schrankgasse 1. To locate these restaurants, see the map on here .
Amerlingbeisl, with a charming, casual atmosphere both on the cobbled street and in its
vine-covered courtyard, is a great value, serving a mix of traditional Austrian and interna-
tional dishes (always a €7 vegetarian daily special, other specials for €6-10, €9-14 dinners,
daily 9:00-2:00 in the morning, Stiftgasse 8, tel. 01/526-1660).
Zu Ebener Erde und Erster Stock (“Downstairs, Upstairs”) is a charming little res-
taurant with a near-gourmet menu. True to its name, it has two distinct eating zones (with
the same menu): a casual, woody bistro downstairs (traditionally the quarters of the poor);
and a fancy Biedermeier-style dining room with red-velvet chairs and violet tablecloths up-
stairs(wherethewealthyconvened).Therearealsoafewalfrescotablesoutfront.Reserva-
tions are smart (€10-19 main dishes, €25 traditional three-course fixed-price meal, seasonal
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