SPAIN - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1490

to offer. Consider starting off your evening with a glass of fine wine at one of the enotecas
on the square facing the Church of Santa Maria del Mar (such as La Vinya del Senyor). Sit
back and admire the pure Catalan Gothic architecture. Most of my listings are either on Car-
rer de l'Argenteria (stretching from the church to the cathedral area) or on or near Carrer de
Montcada (near the Picasso Museum). Many restaurants and shops in this area are, like the
Picasso Museum, closed on Mondays. For locations, see the map on here .
Bar del Pla is a local favorite—near the Picasso Museum but far enough away from the
tourist crowds. This classic diner/bar, overlooking a tiny crossroads next to Barcelona's old-
est church, serves traditional Catalan dishes, raciones, and tapas. Prices are the same at the
baroratatable,buteatingatthebarputsyouinthemiddleofagreatscene(€4-8tapas,Tue-
Sun 12:00-24:00, closed Mon; with your back to the Picasso Museum, head right 2 blocks,
past Carrer de la Princesa, to Carrer de Montcada 2; Metro: Jaume I, tel. [phone]).
La Vinya del Senyor is recommendable only for its location—with wonderful tables
on the square facing the Church of Santa Maria del Mar in the middle of a charming and
lively pedestrian zone. Their wine list is extensive—7 cl gives you a few sips, while 14 cl
is a standard serving. They also have good cheeses, hams, and tapas (Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00,
closed Mon, Plaça de Santa Maria 5, Metro: Jaume I or Barceloneta, tel. [phone]).
El Senyor Parellada, filling a former cloister, is an elegant restaurant with a smart,
tourist-friendly waitstaff. It serves a fun menu of Mediterranean and Catalan cuisine with a
modern twist, all in a classy chandeliers-and-white-tablecloths setting (€10-15 plates, open
daily, Carrer de l'Argenteria 37, 100 yards from Metro: Jaume I, tel. [phone]).
SagardiEuskalTaberna offersawonderfularrayofBasquegoodies—tempting pintxos
and montaditos at €1.80 each—along its huge bar. Ask for a plate and graze (just take
whateverlooksgood).Youcansitonthesquarewithyourplunderfor20percentextra.Wash
it down with Txakolí, a Basque white wine poured from the spout of a huge wooden barrel
into a glass as you watch. When you're done, they'll count your toothpicks to tally your bill
(daily 12:00-24:00, Carrer de l'Argenteria 62-64, Metro: Jaume I, tel. [phone]).
Sagardi, hiding behind its thriving tapas bar (described above), is a mod, rustic, and
minimalistwoodyrestaurantcommittedtoservingBasqueT-bonesteaksandgrilledspecial-
ties with only the best ingredients. A big open kitchen with sizzling grills contributes to the
ambience. Reservations are smart (€10-20 first courses, €20-25 second courses, plan on €45
for dinner, daily 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00, Carrer de l'Argenteria 62, Metro: Jaume I, tel.
933-199-993).
Taller de Tapas (“Tapas Workshop”) is an upscale, trendier tapas bar and restaurant
thatdishesupwell-presented,sophisticatedmorselsandlightmealsinamedieval-stone-yet-
mod setting. Pay 15 percent more to sit on the square. Elegant, but a bit stuffy, it's favored
by local office workers who aren't into the Old World Gothic stuff. Four plates will fill a