Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Anothermuseumhighlightisthe
Modern
section,whichtakesyouonanenjoyablewalk
from the late 1800s to about 1950.It's kind ofa Catalan Musée d'Orsay,offering a big chro-
nological clockwise circle covering Symbolism, Modernisme,
fin de siècle
fun, Art Deco,
and more. Find the early 20th-century paintings by Catalan artists Santiago Rusiñol and Ra-
mon Casas, both of whom had a profound impact on a young Picasso (and, through him, on
all of modern art). Casas was also one of the financiers of Els Quatre Gats, the hangout of
Modernista artists (see
here
); his fun Toulouse-Lautrec-esque works, including a whimsic-
al self-portrait on a tandem bicycle, are crowd-pleasers. Crossing over to the “Modern 2”
section, you'll find furniture (pieces that complement the empty spaces you likely saw in
Gaudí's buildings—including a Gaudí wooden sofa), Impressionism, the shimmering land-
scapes of Joaquim Mir, and several distinctly Picasso portraits of women.
The museum also has a coin collection, seductive sofas scattered about, and the chic
Oleum restaurant, with vast city views (and €28 fixed-price lunches).
▲
1929 World Expo Fairgrounds
With the World Expo in 1929, Montjuïc morphed into an extravagant center for fairs, mu-
seums, and festivals. Except for the factory (now housing the CaixaForum) and the bullring,
everything you see here dates from 1929. The expo's theme was to demonstrate how elec-
tricity was about more than lightbulbs: Electricity powered the funicular, the glorious expo
fountains,themanypaviliondisplays,andeventheflameatopthefountainmarkingthecen-
ter of Plaça d'Espanya (and celebrating the electric company that sponsored the show). If
Barcelona is known for growing through big events, this certainly is a good example.
Standing at Plaça d'Espanya (or, better yet, on the rooftop terrace of the bullring
mall—describedlater),lookthroughthedouble-brick-towergate,downthegrandesplanade,
andimagineitalivewithfountainsandlinedbyproudnationalpavilionsshowingoffallthat
was modern in 1929. Today it's home to the Fira de Barcelona convention center. The Neo-
Baroque fountain provides a brilliant centerpiece for Plaça d'Espanya.
Getting There:
The fairgrounds sprawl at the base of Montjuïc, from the Catalan Art
Museum'sdoorsteptoPlaçad'Espanya.Theeasiestoptionistoseethesesightsonyourway
down from Montjuïc. Otherwise, ride the Metro to Espanya, then use the series of stairs and
escalators to climb up through the heart of the fairgrounds (eventually reaching the Catalan
Art Museum).
▲
Magic Fountains (Font Màgica)
Music, colored lights, and huge amounts of water make an artistic and coordinated splash in
the evening at Plaça d'Espanya.
Cost and Hours:
Free, 20-minute shows start on the half-hour; almost always May-
Sept Thu-Sun 21:00-23:00, no shows Mon-Wed; Oct-April Fri-Sat 19:00-20:30, no shows
