SPAIN - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1440

distance of the Old City) before heading out to the Sagrada Família and Park Güell (farther
afield, but worth the trip). And for those who want to visit both of the outlying sights in one
trip, I've included tips on how to connect them.
Note that two other (non-Gaudí) Modernista works are covered in other sections: Lluís
Domènech i Montaner's Palace of Catalan Music in El Born (see here ) , and Josep Puig
i Cadafalch's CaixaForum, at the base of Montjuïc ( here ) . For information on even more
Modernista sights, you can visit the main TI, where you'll find a special desk set aside just
for Modernisme-seekers (see here ) .
In the Old City, Just off the Ramblas
▲ Palau Güell
JustasthePicassoMuseumrevealsayounggeniusonthevergeofabreakthrough,thisearly
Gaudí building (completed in 1890) shows the architect taking his first tentative steps to-
wardwhatwouldbecomehistrademarkcurvystyle.Darkandmasculine, withitscastle-like
rooms,PalauGüell(Catalanspronounceit“gway”)wascustom-builttohousetheGüellclan
and gives an insight into Gaudí's artistic genius. The included 24-stop audioguide provides
all the details. Despite the eye-catching roof (visible from the street if you crane your neck),
I'd skip Palau Güell if you plan to see the more interesting Casa Milà (described later).
Cost and Hours: €10, includes audioguide, free first Sun of the month, open April-Sept
Tue-Sun 10:00-20:00, Oct-March Tue-Sun 10:00-17:30, closed Mon year-round, last entry
onehourbeforeclosing,ahalf-blockofftheRamblasatCarrerNoudelaRambla3-5,Metro:
Liceu or Drassanes, tel. [phone], www.palauguell.cat .
Buying Tickets: As with any Gaudí sight, you may encounter lines. Since it's not pos-
sible to reserve tickets in advance, you'll have to buy them at the ticket window to the left
of the entryway, then line up to the right. Each ticket has an entry time, so at busy times you
may have to return later, even after buying your ticket.
In the Eixample
The Eixample (“Expansion”) was built when a bulging Barcelona burst out of its medieval
wallsinthemid-19thcentury.Withwidesidewalks,hardyshadetrees,chicshops,andplenty
ofArtNouveaufun,thiscarefullyplanned“newtown,”justnorthoftheOldCity,hasarigid
grid plan cropped back at the corners to create space and lightness at each intersection. Con-
veniently, all of this new construction provided a generation of Modernista architects with a
blank canvas for creating boldly experimental designs.
For the best Eixample example, ramble Rambla de Catalunya (unrelated to the more
famous Ramblas) and pass along Passeig de Gràcia. While you could simply walk around
and see what Modernista masterpieces you stumble upon, most visitors make a beeline to