Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Geographically, the 12-acre square links old Barcelona (the narrow streets to the south)
with the new (the broad boulevards to the north). Four great thoroughfares radiate from
here. The Ramblas is the popular pedestrian promenade. Passeig de Gràcia has fashionable
shops and cafés (and noisy traffic). Rambla de Catalunya is equally fashionable but cozier
and more pedestrian-friendly. Avinguda Portal de l'Angel (shopper-friendly and traffic-free)
leadstotheBarriGòtic(notethatmyself-guided“BarriGòticWalk”beginsfromrighthere).
Historically, Plaça de Catalunya links the modern city with its past. In the 1850s, when
Barcelona tore down its medieval walls to expand the city, this square on the edge of the
walls was one of the first places to be developed.
The odd, inverted-staircase
monument
at the Ramblas end of the square, representing
the shape of Catalunya, honors a former president of Catalunya, Francesc Macià i Llussà,
who declared independence for the breakaway region in 1931. (It didn't quite stick.) It
was designed by the sculptor Josep Maria Subirachs, whose work you'll see at the Sagrada
Família (see
here
).
Thevenerable Café Zürich, justacross thestreet fromthemonument, isapopulardown-
town rendezvous spot for locals. Homesick Americans might prefer the nearby Hard Rock
Café.
• Cross the street and start heading down the Ramblas. To get oriented, pause 20 yards
down, at the ornate lamppost with a fountain as its base (on the right, near #129).
Top of the Ramblas (Fountain of Canaletes):
The black-and-gold fountain has
been a local favorite for more than a century. When Barcelona tore down its medieval wall
and transformed the Ramblas from a drainage ditch into an elegant promenade, this foun-
tain was one of its early attractions. Legend says that a drink from the fountain ensures
that you'll come back to Barcelona one day. Watch the tourists—eager to guarantee a return
trip—struggle with the awkwardly high water pressure. It's still a popular let's-meet-at-the-
fountain rendezvous spot and a gathering place for celebrations and demonstrations. Fans of
theBarcelonasoccerteamrallyherebeforeabigmatch—sometouchtheirhandtotheirlips,
then “kiss” the fountain with their hand for good luck. It's also a good spot to fill up your
water bottle.
• Continue strolling downhill.
All along the Ramblas are
newsstands
(open 24 hours). Among their souvenirs, you'll
see soccer paraphernalia, especially the scarlet-and-blue of FC Barcelona (known as
“Barça”). The team is owned by its more than 170,000 “members”—fans who buy season
tickets, which come with a share of ownership (the team's healthy payroll guarantees that
they're always in contention). Their motto, “More than a club”
(Mes que un club),
suggests
that Barça represents not only athletic prowess but Catalan cultural identity. This comes to
