THE NETHERLANDS - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1370

interior of In Den Uiver (near the Grote Kerk entry at Riviervischmarkt 13, live jazz Thu
and Sun). Lange Veerstraat (behind the Grote Kerk) is colorful and bordered with lively
spots. Boter Grote Markt is more convivial and local, as it's less central and away from the
tourists—try the nearby Jopenkerk brewpub (described later). Vijfhoek, named for the five
lanesthatconvergehere,isincrediblycharming,althoughithasonlyonepub(withplentyof
drinks,barsnacks,arelaxedcrowd,andgoodindoororoutdoorseating).Alsoworthexplor-
ing is the area from this cutest corner in town to the New Church (Nieuwe Kerk), a couple
blocks away. If you want a more high-powered scene, Amsterdam is just 20 minutes away
by train.
Sleeping in Haarlem
The helpful Haarlem TI can nearly always find you a €29 bed in a private home (€5.50/per-
son fee, plus a cut of your host's money; two-night minimum). Avoid this if you can; it's
cheapertoreservebycallingdirect.NearlyeveryDutchpersonyou'llencounterspeaksEng-
lish.
Haarlem is most crowded in April, particularly on Easter weekend (April 18-21 in 2014,
April 3-6 in 2015), during the flower parade (April 26 in 2014), on King's Day (also on
April 26 in 2014, but usually on April 27), and in May, July, and August (especially during
Haarlem's jazz festival on the third weekend of August). Also see the list of holidays in the
appendix.
The prices listed here include breakfast (unless otherwise noted) but don't include the
€2.20-per-person-per-day tourist tax. To avoid excessive street noises, forgo views for a
room in the back. Hotels and the TI have a useful parking brochure.
In the Center
Hotels and B&Bs
$$$ Hotel Lion D'Or is a classy 34-room business hotel with all the professional comforts,
pleasinglyposhdecor,andahandybutless-than-quaintlocation(Db-€150,Fri-SatDb-€125,
extrabed-€15,checkwebsiteforspecialdeals,askforRickStevesdiscountwith2-nightstay
if you book direct, air-con, elevator, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, across the street from
train station at Kruisweg 34, tel. [phone], fax [phone], www.hotelliondor.nl , re-
[e-mail] , friendly Dirk Pauw).
$$$StempelsHotel, modernyetelegant,islocatedinarenovated300-year-oldbuilding.
With bare floors, comfy high-quality beds, and minimalist touches in its 17 rooms, what it
lacks in warmth it makes up for in style and value. Double-paned windows help keep down
the noise—it's just a block east of Grote Markt—with a bustling brasserie and bar down-