Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
for a €1 donation. It dates from the 16th century, and membership has passed from father to
son for generations. Notice the fine carved choir stalls (c. 1700) just inside the door, and the
haunted-house chandeliers. Look up at the ceiling to find the symbol of the confraternity: a
skull-and-crossbones and an hourglass...death awaits us all.
• Return to the beach and find the brick steps that lead up to the hill-capping convent (start-
ing between the train tracks and the pedestrian tunnel). Stop above the castle at a statue of
St. Francis and a wolf taking in a grand view. Enjoy another opportunity to see all five of
the Cinque Terre towns. From here, backtrack 20 yards and continue uphill.
The Switchbacks of the Friars: Follow the yellow brick road (OK, it's orange...but I
couldn't help singing as I skipped skyward). Climb uphill until you reach a convent church,
then a cemetery, in a ruined castle at the summit. The lane (Salita dei Cappuccini) is nick-
named Zii di Frati (“switchbacks of the friars”).
• When you reach a gate marked Convento e Chiesa Cappuccini, you have arrived.
Church of the Capuchin Friars: The former convent is now manned by a single care-
taker friar. Before stepping inside, notice the church's striped Romanesque facade. It's all
fake. Tap it—no marble, just cheap 18th-century stucco. Sit in the rear pew. The high al-
tarpiece painting of St. Francis can be rolled up on special days to reveal a statue of Mary
standing behind it. Look at the statue of St. Anthony to the right and smile (you're on con-
vent camera). Wave at the security camera—they're nervous about the precious painting to
your left.
Thisfinepainting oftheCrucifixion isattributed toAnthonyvanDyck,the17th-century
Flemish master who lived and worked for years in nearby Genoa (though art historians sus-
pect that, at best, it was painted by someone in the artist's workshop). When Jesus died, the
earth went dark. Notice the eclipsed sun in the painting, just to the right of the cross. Do the
electric candles work? Pick one up, pray for peace, and plug it in. (Leave €0.50, or unplug it
and put it back.)
• Leave and turn left to hike 100 yards uphill to the cemetery that fills the remains of the
castle, capping the hill. Look out from the gate and enjoy the view.
Cemetery in the Ruined Castle: In the Dark Ages, the village huddled within this
castle. Slowly it expanded. Notice the town view from here—no sea. You're looking at the
oldest part of Monterosso, huddled behind the hill, out of view of 13th-century pirates. Ex-
plore the cemetery, but remember that cemeteries are sacred and treasured places (as is clear
bytheabundanceoffreshflowers).Pondertheblack-and-white photosofgrandparentspast.
Q.R.P. is QuiRiposainPace (a.k.a.R.I.P.).Richfamilieshadtheirownlittletombbuildings.
Climb to the very summit—the castle's keep, or place of last refuge. Priests are buried in a
line of graves closest to the sea, but facing inland, toward the town's holy sanctuary high on
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