ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1265

(3 rooms overlooking main street with train noise, Db-€60-80, ring at Via Roma 56, tel.
0187-821-134, www.evasrooms.it , [e-mail] ); $$ Manuela Moggia (3 rooms,
Db-€80,Tb-€95,Qbwithkitchen-€125,topofthetownatViaGavino22,tel.[phone],
mobile [phone], www.manuela-vernazza.com , [e-mail] ); and $$
Elisabetta Rooms (3tired rooms at the tip-top oftown with Vernazza'sultimate 360-degree
roof terrace, Db-€65, Tb-€90, Qb-€100, fans, Via Carattino 62, mobile [phone],
www.elisabettacarro.it , [e-mail] , Elisabetta and Pino).
Eating in Vernazza
As many Vernazza restaurants were wiped out by the 2011 flood, it's possible that a few of
the places listed here may still be under construction or have different hours for your visit.
Breakfast
(See “Vernazza” map, here . )
Locals take breakfast about as seriously as flossing. A cappuccino and a pastry or a piece
of focaccia from a bar or bakery does it. Most of my recommended accommodations don't
come with breakfast (when they do, I've noted so in my listings). Assuming you're on your
own, you have four basic options: Blue Marlin Bar for its extensive menu, including bacon
and eggs; Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre for sugary stuff and a lively welcome; Ananasso Bar
for coffee and a sweet roll on the harborfront; or any bakery for picnic goodies.
Blue Marlin Bar (mid-town, just below the train station) serves a good array of clearly
priced à la carte items including eggs and bacon (only after 8:45), adding up to the priciest
breakfast in town (likely to total €10). It's run by Massimo and Carmen with the capable as-
sistance of Jeff, an American who now lives in Vernazza. If you're awaiting a train any time
of day, the Blue Marlin's outdoor seating beats the platform (Thu-Tue 7:00-24:00, closed
Wed, tel. [phone]).
Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre is located at the top of the town, where the dynamic Si-
cilian duo Gianluca and Massimo (hardworking twins, a.k.a. the Cannoli brothers) enthu-
siastically offer a great assortment of handcrafted authentic Sicilian pastries. Their fun and
playful service makes up for the lack of a view. Gianluca is a pastry artist, hand-painting
fanciful sculptured marzipan. Their sweet pastry breakfasts are a hit, with a stunning array
of hot-out-of-the-oven treats like panzerotto (made of ricotta, cinnamon, and vanilla, €2.50)
and hot cheese and pesto bruschetta (€3). They proudly serve no bacon and eggs (since “this
isItaly”).WhiletheatmosphereoftheplaceseemslikesuburbanMilan,ithasacuriouscha-
risma among its customers—bringing Vernazza a welcome bit of Sicily (daily 6:30-24:00,
Via Gavino 36, tel. [phone]).