ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1261

Sleeping in Vernazza
(€1 = about $1.30, country code: 39)
Vernazza, the spindly and salty essence of the Cinque Terre, is my top choice for a home
base. Off-season (Oct-March), you can generally arrive without a reservation and find a
place, but at other times, it's smart to book ahead (especially June-July and weekends).
People recommended here are listed for their communication skills (they speak English,
have email, and are reliable with bookings) and because they rent several rooms. Conse-
quently, my recommendations cost more than comparable rooms you'll find if you shop
around. Comparison-shopping will likely save you €10-20 per double per night—and often
get you a better place and view to boot. The real Vernazza gems are stray single rooms with
owners who have no interest in booking in advance or messing with email. Arrive by early
afternoonanddropbyanyshoporbarandask;mostlocalsknowsomeonewhorentsrooms.
Anywhere you stay here requires some climbing, but keep in mind that more climbing
means better views. Most do not include breakfast (for suggestions, see “Eating in
Vernazza,” later). Cash is preferred or required almost everywhere. Night noise can be a
problem if you're near the station. Rooms on the harbor come with church bells (but only
between 7:00 and 22:00).
ExpectChanges: Followingthe2011flooding,mostaccommodationsintownhadtore-
build from scratch. While many are likely open for your visit, specifics have likely changed.
When inquiring about rooms, carefully confirm the prices, amenities, and other information
noted below.
Pensions
These pensions are located on the Vernazza map.
$$$ Pensione Sorriso, the oldest pension in town (where I stayed on my first visit in
1975), rents 19 overpriced rooms above the train station. While the main building has the
charm,itcomeswithtrainnoiseandsaggybeds;theannex,upthestreet,isinaquieterapart-
ment that feels forgotten (S-€65, Sb-€80, D-€100, Db-€140-150, Tb-€130, includes break-
fast, some with air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Gavino 4, tel. [phone], www.pensionesorriso.com ,
[e-mail] , Francesca and Aldo).
$$$ Trattoria Gianni rents 27 small rooms and three apartments just under the castle.
The rooms are in three buildings—one funky, two modern—up a hundred tight, winding
spiralstairs.Thefunkyones,whichmayormaynothaveprivatebaths,areartfullydecorated
à la shipwreck, with tiny balconies and grand sea views (con vista sul mare) . The comfy
new (nuovo) rooms lack views. Both have modern bathrooms and access to a super-
scenic cliff-hanging guests' garden. Steely Marisa requires check-in before 16:00 or a