Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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Ontheleft,infrontofthesecond
gelateria,
astonearchwasblastedawaybytheflood.The
hole in the rock leads to a beach created by the flood. This is where the town's stream used
to hit the sea back in the 1970s.
Continue downhill. Just before the harbor, the main street becomes very narrow. This
was the bottleneck that caused water to back up into the town during the flood. And these
buildings are about the only ones in town to suffer structural damage from the force of the
water.
A few steps farther take you to the...
Harbor Square and Breakwater:
Vernazza, with the only natural harbor of the Cinque
Terre, was established as the sole place boats could pick up the fine local wine. The two-
foot-high square stone at the foot of the stairs by the Burgus Wine Bar is marked
Sasso del
Sego
(stone of tallow). Workers crushed animal flesh and fat in its basin to make tallow,
which drained out of the tiny hole below. The tallow was then used to waterproof boats or
wine barrels. For more town history, step into the Burgus to see fascinating old photos of
Vernazza on the wall. Stonework is the soul of the region. Take some time to appreciate the
impressive stonework of the restaurant interiors facing the harbor.
On the far side (behind Ristorante Pizzeria Vulnetia), peek into the tiny street with its
commotionofarches.Vernazza'smostcharacteristicsidestreets,called
carugi,
leadupfrom
here. The trail (above the church, toward Monterosso) leads to the quintessential view of
Vernazza.
Located in front of the harborside church, the tiny piazza—decorated with a river-rock
mosaic—is a popular hangout spot. It's where Vernazza's old ladies soak up the last bit of
sun, and kids enjoy a patch of level ball field.
Vernazza'sharborfront
church
isunusualforitsstrangeentryway,whichfaceseast(altar
side). With relative peace and prosperity in the 16th century, the townspeople doubled the
churchinsize,causingittoovertakealittle piazzathatoncefacedthewestfacade.Fromthe
square, use the “new” entry and climb the steps, keeping an eye out for the level necessary
to keep the church high and dry. Inside, the lighter pillars in the back mark the 16th-cen-
turyextension.Threehistoricportablecrosseshangingonthewallsarecarriedthroughtown
during Easter processions. They are replicas of crosses that (locals like to believe) Vernazza
ships once carried on crusades to the Holy Land. In 1998, Vernazza's priest was gruesomely
and mysteriously murdered. While circumstantial evidence points to fascinating conspiracy
theories, no one knows whodunit (or, at least, no one's telling). Today's priest, Don Gio-
vanni, is popular—he stopped the church bells from ringing through the night (light sleepers
rejoiced). In the wake of the 2011 flood, he opened up the church as a staging ground for
recovery services.
