Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
With the closest thing to a natural harbor—overseen by a ruined castle and a stout stone
church—Vernazza is the jewel of the Cinque Terre. Only the occasional noisy slurping up of
the train by the mountain reminds you of the modern world.
The action is at the harbor, where you'll find outdoor restaurants, a bar hanging on the
edge of the castle, and a breakwater with a promenade, corralled by a natural amphitheater
of terraced hills. In the summer, the beach becomes a soccer field, where teams fielded by
local bars and restaurants provide late-night entertainment. In the dark, locals fish off the
promontory, using glowing bobbers that shine in the waves.
ProudoftheirVernazzanheritage,thetown's500residentsliketobrag:“Vernazzaisloc-
allyowned.Portofinohassoldout.”Fearingthechangeitwouldbring,keep-Vernazza-small
proponents stopped the construction of a major road into the town and region. Families are
tight and go back centuries; several generations stay together. In the winter, the population
shrinks, as many people return to their more comfortable big-city apartments to spend the
money they reaped during the tourist season.
