ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1240

Backpacker Dorms
$ Riomaggiore Reservations (also listed above) runs a mini-hostel in a fine communal
apartment with nine beds in three rooms, a cool living room, terrace, and kitchen in a
good, quiet location. Take care of this little treasure so it survives (€25/bed, reception
open 9:00-17:00 in season, Via Colombo 181, tel. [phone],
www.riomaggiorereservations.com , [e-mail] ) .
$ Camere Patrizia rents cheap doubles and dorm bunk beds at €25 per person from its
reception at Via Colombo 25, but books only through www.hostelworld.com or to drop-ins
(mobile [phone]).
Eating in Riomaggiore
Trattoria la Grotta, right in the town center (with no view), serves reliably good food with
a passion for anchovies and mussels. You'll enjoy friendly service surrounded by historic
photos and wonderful stonework in a dramatic, dressy, cave-like setting. Venessa is warm
and helpful, while her mother, Isa, is busy cooking (€12 pastas, €15 secondi, cash discount,
Thu-Tue 12:00-14:30 & 17:30-22:30, closed Wed, Via Colombo 247, tel. [phone]).
La Lanterna, with a gray-and-white interior and a few appealing harborside tables out-
side, is wedged into a niche in the Marina, overlooking the harbor under the tracks. Chef
Massimo serves traditional plates, loves anchovies, and bakes fresh bread daily (€10 pastas,
€18 secondi , no cover, daily 12:00-22:00, Via San Giacomo 10, tel. [phone]).
Te La Do Io La Merenda (“I'll Give You a Snack”) is good for a snack, pizza, or
takeout. Their counter is piled with an assortment of munchies, and they have pastas, roas-
ted chicken, and focaccia sandwiches to go (daily 9:00-21:00, Via Colombo 161, mobile
340-400-3256).
Enoteca & Ristorante Dau Cila is decked out like a black-and-white movie set in a
centuries-old boatshedwithextra tables outside onarustic deckoverdinghies. Trytheir an-
tipasto specialty of several seafood appetizers, and listen to jazz with the waves lapping at
the harbor below (€12 pastas, €18 secondi , March-Jan daily until 24:00, Via San Giacomo
65, tel. [phone], Luca).
Bar & Vini A Piè de Mà, at the trailhead on the Manarola end of town, is good for a
scenic light bite or quiet drink at night. Enjoying a meal at a table on its dramatically situ-
ated terrace provides an indelible Cinque Terre memory (daily 10:00-20:00, June-Sept until
24:00, tel. [phone]).
Picnics: Groceries and delis lining Via Colombo sell food to go, including pizza slices,
for a picnic at the harbor or beach. Look for Co-Op grocery store signs for the best prices.