Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Longer Hikes:
Above the trails that run between the towns, higher-elevation hikes cris-
scross the region. Shuttle buses make the going easier, connecting coastal villages and trail-
heads in the hills. Ask locally about the more difficult six-mile inland hike to Volastra. This
tiny village, perched between Manarola and Corniglia, hosts lots of Germans and Italians in
the summertime. Just below its town center, in the hamlet of Groppo, is the Cinque Terre
Cooperative Winery(opendaily).ForthewholetriponthehighroadbetweenManarolaand
Corniglia, allow two hours one-way. In return, you'll get sweeping views and a closer look
at the vineyards. Shuttle buses run from Manarola to Volastra (€2.50 or free with Cinque
Terre Park Card, pick up schedule from park office, 8/day, more departures in summer, 15
minutes); consider taking the bus up and hiking down.
Swimming, Kayaking, and Biking
Every town in the Cinque Terre has a beach or a rocky place to swim. Monterosso has the
biggest and sandiest beach, with umbrellas and beach-use fees (but it's free where there are
no umbrellas). Vernazza's is tiny—better for sunning than swimming. Manarola and Rio-
maggiore have the worst beaches (no sand), but Manarola offers the best deep-water swim-
ming.
Wearyourwalking shoesandpackyourswimgear.Several ofthebeaches haveshowers
(no shampoo, please). Underwater sightseeing is full of fish—goggles are sold in local
shops. Sea urchins can be a problem if you walk on the rocks, and sometimes jellyfish wash
up on the pebbles.
You can rent kayaks or boats in Riomaggiore, Vernazza, and Monterosso. (For details,
see individual town listings in this chapter.) Some readers say kayaking can be danger-
ous—the kayaks tip easily, training is not provided, and lifejackets are not required.
Sleeping in the Cinque Terre
If you think too many people have my book, avoid Vernazza. You get fewer crowds and bet-
ter value for your money in other towns. Monterosso is a good choice for sun-worshipping
softies, those who prefer the ease of a real hotel, and the younger crowd (more nightlife).
Hermits, anarchists, wine lovers, and mountain goats like Corniglia. Sophisticated Italians
and Germans choose Manarola. Riomaggiore—bigger than Vernazza and less resorty than
Monterosso—has the cheapest beds.
While the Cinque Terre is too rugged for the mobs that ravage the Spanish and French
coasts, it's popular with Italians, Germans, and in-the-know Americans. Hotels charge more
and are packed on holidays (including Easter); in June, July, and September; and on Fridays
andSaturdaysallsummer.(Withglobalwarming,swelteringAugustisnolongerconsidered
peak season on this stretch of the Riviera.) While you can find doubles for €65 or €70 most
