Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Cinque Terre are wide-open for visitors, though a few businesses may lag behind. After
this exhausting period of rebuilding, locals are offering visitors, who provide their live-
lihood, a warm and hearty welcome. For all the latest on the recovery in
Vernazza,
see
www.savevernazza.com
; for
Monterosso,
see
www.rebuildmonterosso.com
.
Arrival in the Cinque Terre
By Train:
Big, fast trains from elsewhere in Italy speed right past the Cinque Terre (though
some stop in Monterosso and Riomaggiore). Unless you're coming from a nearby town,
you'll have to change trains at least once to reach Manarola, Corniglia, or Vernazza.
Generally, if you're coming from the north, you'll change trains in Sestri Levante or
Genoa (specifically, Genoa's Piazza Principe station). If you're coming from the south or
east, you'll most likely have to switch trains in La Spezia (change at La Spezia Centrale
station—don't make the mistake of getting off at La Spezia Migliarina). No matter where
you're coming from, it's best to check in the station before you leave to see your full sched-
ule and route options (use the computerized kiosks or ask at a ticket window). Don't forget
to validate your ticket by stamping it—ka-CHUNK!—in the machines located on train plat-
forms and elsewhere in the station. Conductors here are notorious for levying stiff fines on
forgetful tourists. For more information on riding the train between Cinque Terre towns, see
“Getting Around the Cinque Terre,” later.
Planning Your Time
The ideal stay is two or three full days; my recommended minimum stay is two nights and
a completely uninterrupted day. The Cinque Terre is served by the local train from Genoa
and La Spezia. Speed demons arrive in the morning, check their bags in La Spezia, take the
five-hour hike through all five towns, laze away the afternoon on the beach or rock of their
choice, and zoom away on the overnight train to somewhere back in the real world. But be
warned: The Cinque Terre has a strange way of messing up your momentum. (The evidence
is the number of Americans who have fallen in love with the region and/or one of its resid-
ents...andarestillhere.)Frankly,stayingfewerthantwonightsisamistakethatyou'lllikely
regret.
The towns are just a few minutes apart by hourly train or boat. There's no checklist of
sights or experiences—just a hike, the towns themselves, and your fondest vacation desires.
Study this chapter in advance and piece together your best day, mixing hiking, swimming,
trains, and a boat ride. For the best light and coolest temperatures, start your hike early.
Market days perk up the towns from 8:00 to 13:00 on Tuesday in Vernazza, Wednesday
in Levanto, Thursday in Monterosso and Sestri Levante, and Friday in La Spezia.
