Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ThischurchhasaclassicBrunelleschiinterior—enjoyitspureRenaissancelines(andignore
the later Baroque altar that replaced the original). Notice Brunelleschi's “dice”—the stone
cubes added above the column capitals that contribute to the nave's playful lightness. The
church'sarttreasureisapainted,carvedwoodencrucifixattributedto17-year-oldMichelan-
gelo.Thesculptordonatedthisearlyworktothemonasteryinappreciation forallowinghim
to dissect and learn about bodies. The Michelangelo
Crocifisso
is displayed in the sacristy,
through a door midway down the left side of the nave (if it's closed, ask someone to let you
in). Copies of Michelangelo's
Pietà
and
Risen Christ
flank the nave (near the main door).
Beer-drinking, guitar-playing rowdies decorate the church steps.
Cost and Hours:
Free, Mon-Tue and Thu-Sat 9:30-12:30 & 16:00-17:30, Sun
16:00-17:30 only, closed Wed, Piazza di Santo Spirito, tel. 055-210-030.
▲
Piazzale Michelangelo
Overlooking the city from across the river (look for the huge statue of
David
), this square
has a superb view of Florence and the stunning dome of the Duomo.
It'sworththe30-minutehike,drive(freeparking),orbusride(either#12or#13fromthe
trainstation—takes 20-30minutes, orevenmoreinbadtraffic).Itmakessensetotakeataxi
or ride the bus up, and then enjoy the easy downhill walk back into town. An inviting café
with great views is just below the overlook. The best photos are taken from the street imme-
diately below the overlook (go around to the right and down a few steps). Off the west side
ofthepiazzaisasomewhathiddenterrace,anexcellentplacetoretreatfromthemobs.After
dark,thesquareispackedwithschoolkidslickingicecreamandeachother.About200yards
beyondallthetourgroupsandteenagersisthestark,beautiful,crowd-free,RomanesqueSan
Miniato Church (next listing).
The hike down is quick and enjoyable. Take the steps between the two bars on the San
Miniato Church side of the parking lot (Via San Salvatore al Monte), and in a couple of
minutesyouwalkthroughtheoldwall(PortaSanMiniato)andemergeinthedelightfullittle
Oltrarno neighborhood of San Niccolò.
According to legend, the martyred St. Minias—this church's namesake—was beheaded on
the banks of the Arno in
A.D.
250. He picked up his head and walked here (this was before
the #12 bus), where he died and was buried in what became the first Christian cemetery in
Florence. In the 11th century, this church was built to house Minias' remains. The church's
green-and-white marble facade (12th century) is classic Florentine Romanesque, one of the
oldest intown.Thechurchhaswonderful3-Dpaintings, aplushceiling ofglazed terra-cotta
panels by Luca della Robbia, and an exquisite Renaissance chapel (on the left side of the
