ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1125

On or near Campo San Barnaba
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Accademia Bridge” map, here . )
This small square is a delight—especially in the evening. As these places are within a few
steps of each other—and the energy and atmosphere can vary—I like to survey the options
before choosing (although reservations may be necessary to dine later in the evening).
Ristoteca Oniga is all about fresh fish, with a chic-and-ship-shape interior, great tables
on the square, and the enthusiastic direction of Raffaele. The menu is accessible and always
includes a good vegetarian dish (€12 pastas, €20 secondi, €2 cover, closed Tue, reservations
smart, Campo San Barnaba, tel. [phone]).
Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti serves well-presented quality dishes either in its tight little
wine-snob interior or at six petite, romantic canalside tables. They serve good wines by the
glass from their prize-winning list (€15 pastas, €20 secondi , closed Sun, Fondamenta della
Toletta, tel. [phone]).
Pizzeria al Profeta is a casual place popular for great pizza and steak. It's big, woody
interior seems to stoke conviviality, as does its leafy garden out back (€8-10 pizzas, closed
Tue; from Campo San Barnaba, walk to the end of Calle Lunga San Barnaba; tel.
041-523-7466).
EnotecaeTrattorialaBitta isdarkandwoody,withasoft-jazzbistrofeel,tightseating,
and a small, forgettable back patio. They serve beautifully presented, traditional Venetian
food with—proudly—no fish. Their helpful waitstaff and small, handwritten daily menu are
clearly focused on quality, with local ingredients and a “slow food” ethic. As it has an avid
following, there are two seatings (19:00 and 21:00), reservations are required, and service
can be intense (€10 pastas, €16-25 secondi, €2 cover, dinner only, Mon-Sat 18:30-23:00,
closed Sun, cash only, just off Campo San Barnaba on Calle Lunga San Barnaba, tel.
041-523-0531, Debora and Marcellino).
In Cannaregio
Cannaregio offers the classic chance in Venice to “get off the beaten path.” Beyond the Jew-
ish Ghetto, this neighborhood—more residential than touristic—features a grid layout with
straight and spacious canalside walks (part of an expansion from the 1400s). Although it
lacksthehiggledy-piggledyfeeloftheolderpartoftown,it'sworththelongwalkforalook.
Rather thancome herejust forameal, I'dmake time toexplore andthengrababite while in
theneighborhood.Cannaregioismostpeacefulatsunset.Forlocations,seethemapon here .
Osteria L'Orto dei Mori is a chic place serving nicely presented, creative Venetian
cuisine. You can eat in the elegant, modern interior or on a great neighborhood square with
10 tables surrounded by a classic scene of wellhead, bridges, and canal (€13 pastas, €25
secondi, €3 cover, closed Tue, on Rio della Sensa at Calle Larga, on Campo dei Mori, tel.
041-524-3677).